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You are currently viewing Build and Install a Sliding Barn Door

Ever since I was a young man-child I’ve wanted a sliding barn door. But because we relocated across the country for so many years, it just wasn’t worth the ASTRONOMICAL price to get a kit (when they first came to market they were about $300 and UP).  Well now that we’ve settled down and prices have come down, enough is enough! Today I’m going to build and install a sliding barn door!


Time Required:

Under $250

Material Cut ListPurchase ListTools RequiredSafetyRelated Posts
Door Frame:
2 – 1×6 @ 70-1/16″ (left, right)
2 – 1×8 ripped to 1×7.25″@ 38″ (top, bottom)
2 – 1×6 @ 38-1/2″ at 57.5 degrees (diagonal supports)
8 – 1×6 T&G – Cut off excess material AFTER being attached to door frame with circular saw
1 – 1×8 @ 80″

1 – 1x8x8 Pine
5 – 1x6x8 Pine
8 – 1x6x8 Tongue & Groove Pine
8ft Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit
1-1/4″ Pocket Screws
1-1/4″ Brad Nails
3″ Bolts
9″ Barn Door Handle
Minwax Special Walnut stain
Minwax Satin Polycrylic

Build and Install a Sliding Barn Door

The first step before you build and install a sliding barn door is to measure your door OPENING size and decided which hardware kit you’re going to need.

My barn door will be using the 79″ or 6-foot 7-inch kit from Industrial by Design that accommodates a maximum door opening size of 38″ or smaller.

If your door opening size is 47″ or smaller, go with the 96″ or 8-foot kit. If this is the correct barn door size for you, be sure to ADJUST YOUR CUT SIZES as your door will need to be bigger. If there’s enough demand I’ll write-up a door plan for a 47″ opening, let me know in the comments below!

Here is all of the material required to build your own sliding barn door and header.

Set your Kreg Jig to accomadate 3/4″ material. Clamp and pre-drill the center and two side pieces of the 1×6 door frame.

Three holes on each side.

Apply wood glue and push the pieces about to be joined together while lining up the outside edge.

Secure the two pieces using 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws.

Make your way to the other side and repeat the steps from above. If the frame tries to pull in and out of square, use pressure clamps to keep the boards from pushing in.

Measure out the center from the inside of the frame. This is where we’re going to be placing the center 1×6.

Line-up the center on your center marks 1×6 and double check for square with your tape measure.

Secure the center 1×6 to the main door frame.

Cut the two diagonal pieces at 57.5 degrees and 38-1/2″. Because my miter saw only cuts up to 45-degrees, I made the first cut by hand. Next I transferred that angle to the second diagonal piece, took it to my miter saw and lined up the blade with my mark by pulling the board’s edge off the fence.

Pre-drill (3) pocket holes on each side of the diagonal pieces.


Before screwing place scrap wood under the front of the frame to keep the front flush. Then secure the pieces together with 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws.

Rip the front and back 1×6 tongue and groove boards to 4-1/2″.

Liberally apply glue all across the bottom face of the tongue and groove board.

Face nail this board to the back of the frame. This will be our “anchor” piece so we can install the rest of the tongue and groove 1×6’s.

Grab a rubber mallet and scrap piece of wood. Hammer the tongue into the groove for a tight fit.

Secure the 1-1/4″ brad nails into the back of the main frame by either face nailing them or going through the tongue. If you face nail, be sure to fill in any brad holes with wood filler. If you have a floor-nailer, now’s a great time to whip that bad boy out to conceal the hardware!

Make your all the way to the end of the piece and face nail.

It’s…beautiful! But HUGE!

Trim the excess tongue and groove boards off using a circular saw. Do this for the top and bottom and sides as needed.

I use a 1×4 as a guide otherwise my cuts will look like a jackson pollock painting. TERRIBLE!

Not very jackson pollocky!

I’ll be using Minwax Special Walnut stain. It’s got a great tone that matches my hardwood floors!

After coating the front and back of the door with stain, I apply (3) coats of Minwax Satin Polycrylic.

Now for the FUN! Here’s everything you need to install one of the (2) casters provided in the 79″ sliding barn door hardware kit.

Set the top of the caster 1-3/4″ away from the top of the barn door.

Use your speed square to keep the caster square to the door and pre-drill through the two holes.

Use a ratchet kit and wrench to secure the nut and bolts. These nuts are supposed to be on the FRONT of the barn door, but I liked how the bolts looked better.

Next up are the plastic bumpers that will keep the door from being bumped off of the track.

Pre-drill and attach these to the top of the door. I centered mine.

Line-up the barn door with the attached casters and pre-drill through the holes on barn door handle…

And attach with the screws provided.

This is my opening. My 1×6 header is going to be 1″ off of the top of the door opening.

Locate the studes and transfer those marks onto your header. If your studs fall 16″ on center, you DO NOT need to use a header. But you can, if you want. It’s your life!

Pre-drill through the stud marks and attach the first side of the header using at least 3″ bolts.

Move to the center of the header and check for level.

Pre-drill through the pre-marked hole and into the far stud.

Attach to the stud. The rest of the bolts should be easy to pre-drill and install now that both sides are secure and level.

Here is the wall hardware for the 79″ sliding barn door kit. It includes (5) spacers, (5) bolts and (5) washers.

The rail needs to be the height of the door PLUS 1-11/16″. This puts the holes of the rail 3-1/8″ center-line from the bottom of the header.

Pre-drill through the barn door header.

And secure using on of the provided bolts.

Move your ladder to the other end of the header, place a spacer behind the rail and check for level. Pre-drill.

Secure the other side of the rail using the provided bolt. Make your way along the rest of the rail to secure the rest of the bolts. You should not have to check for level after this step.

The sliding barn door rail is STRONG and SECURE. I literally did one(hundred and one) pull-ups.

Now the is moment of TRUTH!!! Lift up the barn door and slide the first caster on…

And the second….it’s PERFECT!

The second to last step is to secure the stoppers. These little rubber pads will keep the door from going past where you want it!

Loosen up the top screws a bit with the provided allen key.

And follow me here…

Slide the stopper onto the bar and move it into position. Secure using the allen key.

And last but not least attach the door guide. This is supposed to be secured in the center of the bottom of the door. This way it keeps the door off of the wall and from pulling out too far and falling off the rail.

But because I don’t have a fence for my router I opted to install this in the front for the time being. If you have the proper tools you’ll want to route a channel into the bottom of the center of the door.

And THAT is how you build and install a sliding barn door. This was one of the most exciting builds ever. Well, for me anyway. You may have hated it.

The hardware really does add a touch of class to the rustic barn door.

If you have any questions on the build or install feel free to ask below!

As always thanks for reading and be sure to check out Industrial by Design if you’re in the market for affordable hairpin legs, steel legs or sliding barn door hardware with a lifetime warranty. They were gracious enough to send me this sliding barn door kit and it made my door WAY more awesome than I ever imagined.


One stay at home dad (to be) conquers DIY and Diapers

This Post Has 58 Comments

  1. Wow Rick- great job! I am planning to add a barn door to a kitchen extension. Not doing it myself, but happy to have these DIY instructions just in case!

    1. Rick

      thank you! hope the install goes well for you and feel free to hit me up with any questions!

    2. Ted

      Rick, Thank you so much for the step by step, my wife has been wanting a door for our master bath for 5 years, It was way to much work to rip the drywall out and put in a pocket door. The track went up flawlessly, the door you built is awesome but did not go with the décor of our home, so I went to the local big box store and ordered a 36 x 80 door slab that has four opaque windows to keep that natural light flowing. So just wanted to say thanks….you know what they say, happy wife–happy life. If I could give one pointer if anyone else will be using a door slab, order it just a few inches taller then the standard 80. Your headboard and bed frame are next on the list.

      1. Rick

        Hey Ted thanks for the kind words! Glad to hear the door install was met with rave reviews! And great advice re: door slabs. When I was designing the door my initial design was too short for the opening so I had to make some adjustments. Good luck with the bedframe!!

    3. Lilian

      Do you know the door thickness by chance?

  2. Jeff McNutt

    Hnnggggg. I need to figure out where to do this. Maybe I’ll just put it on a wall to nowhere.

  3. Tyler Allred

    did you drill that door guide straight down into your carpet?

    1. Rick

      Hey Tyler- Yes through the carpet and into the subfloor.

      1. Tyler Allred

        I guess that was a kind of a dumb question…better question is how long were the screws you used?

  4. David Homan

    I’m almost done with the door and just figuring out the hardware. How much room is there between the door and the baseboard trim? Is that adjustable on the hardware at all or can I just use a thicker header if I need more space?

    I just found the site and I’m really loving it! Keep it up!

    1. Rick

      Hey David – Glad you’re digging the site, thanks for stopping by! The space is not adjustable on the kit, but you can use a thicker header if needed. The door is about 3/4″ from the baseboard trim and 1-1/4″ from the wall. My header board is 3/4″ thick. Hope that helps and goodluck with the rest of our build/hardware install. Let me know how it goes and feel free to tag me on social media I’d love to see the final result!

      1. David Homan

        The hardware system that you linked to above does not include the rail. When I looked at it the first time, I thought it did, but I just ordered it and no rail is included. Where do you think I can get the rail from?

        1. Rick

          Hi David – Are you sure you purchased the correct kit? In the description it states the following, “ONE-PIECE RAIL: One full 96″ rail is included.” Mine arrived in a (very heavy) long, narrow box to accommodate the rail. I would contact Amazon and they should take care of you. Please let me know if you get it taken care of!

          1. David Homan

            It must’ve been something wrong on my end. It now took me to the right item. I first ordered the extra kit without the rail. I’ve already ordered the right one and will return the other. Gotta love Amazon Prime!

            1. Rick

              Oh great glad to hear! You freaked me out for a second there! I get pretty much everything through prime, it’s the greatest!!

  5. Lauren L

    SO excited for this tutorial. I’ve wanted a sliding barn door for as long as I can remember. Cant wait to build my own. Also pumped for the bonus pull up bar for the hundreds of pull ups I do every day.

    1. Rick

      LOL! Right? Who knew barn door hardware was so versatile! The door adds so much character to an otherwise BORING dining room, glad I finally went for it. I think I’m going to build a little wine rack/cabinet to finish off the space!

  6. AlZahra Sulaiman

    Hi! So happy to have found this amazing guide! I will definitely be using it to build my own. I have one question, how big was your barn door? I want my door to be around 137cm x 220cm. Will the materials list you provided be enough for my barn door? Sorry if it is a silly question, but this will be my first build ever.

  7. Chris

    Thanks for the great write up! Question for you: where did you purchase the tongue and groove pine boards? I tried both Home Depot and Lowes and neither store carried tongue and groove boards that were finished (sanded) on both sides.

    Thanks again!

    1. Rick

      Hey Chris! No problem! They were from Home Depot. Here’s a link (input your zip code to see if a store nearby carries them). I had to sand them a bit but not much. Let me know how things work out!

      1. Chris

        Thanks fo the quick feedback. It must be sold as a regional thing as they don’t offer them here in AZ. What they offer is about 1/2″ thick and not suitable for a barn door. I’ll just have to use normal pine wood and skip over the look of tongue and groove. Thanks again!

  8. Jeremiah

    what guage brad nails did you use?

    1. Rick

      Hi Jeremiah I used 18 gauge brad nails.

  9. David Meredith

    This looks great, and we can’t wait to build it!

    Quick question : where does the 1x8x8 go? You didn’t seem to say where you put it in the video, and the text in the instructions didn’t mention where it goes.

    Thanks for the great site – it’s giving us lots of ideas for it bathroom renovations!

    1. Rick

      Hi David, sorry for my delayed response and I apologize for the confusion. That is the header board that the rail is attached to. The width of the board is totally up to you (you can use 1×12, 1×8, 1×6, etc.) as it’s more of a visual element along with providing extra support if your wall studs don’t fall where you need them. It should say 1×8 on the cut list tab but I erroneously put 1×6 (and will update that right now).

      Hope your bathroom reno is going/went well!

  10. Linda

    I have the same question as David … where do you use the 1x8x8 piece?
    Thank you!

    1. Rick

      Hi Linda! I apologize for the confusion. That is the header board that the rail is attached to. The width of the board is totally up to you (you can use 1×12, 1×8, 1×6, etc.) as it’s more of a visual element along with providing extra support if your wall studs don’t fall where you need them. It should say 1×8 on the cut list tab but I erroneously put 1×6 (and will update that right now).

  11. Adam Schuler

    Rick – Thanks sooo much for this! The wife (my project manager) has been after me to put a door on the laundry room. This was perfect. Very easy to follow along and I only made a couple of minor changes to your design. I didn’t put in the two diagonal pieces and used a better grade pine (we weren’t looking for the rough cut barn door look). It turned out awesome. The wife is the envy of all the neighborhood wives for having such a talented husband and I’m now hated by the neighborhood husbands……haha. Im passing along my secret weapon….You!

    1. Rick

      Hey Adam! LOL! Glad to hear the project turned out great man and thanks for sharing the site! But be careful! I think you’ll find yourself with A LOT less free time now that your talents have been discovered!

  12. Ryan Barash

    What actual dimensions is the door you made?

    1. Rick

      Hey Ryan – Take a look in the “material cut list” tab at the top of the post and you’ll find the dimensions.

  13. John Casey

    My opening width is 48 1/2″. The closed end will butt into a wall perpendicular to the door. The rail will butt up against the wall. I want a stop to keep the door from banging against the wall so one caster will be closer to the door edge than the other.
    Since the door itself will be 1″ wider to provide some overlap, the door width is 49 1/2″. The total of the opening width and door width is 98″ or 2″ wider than the 96″ rail!!! Plus, the bolts in the rail will not line up with the studs. Does the use of a header move the door outward from the wall more than if no header is needed?

    I’m wanting to build this before Christmas!!!



    1. Rick

      Hey John – The header does push out the door an additional 3/4″ from the wall with no ill effects if you properly rout out a channel for the bottom door guide. Since the rail bolt holes aren’t lining up with the studs, a header will allow you to safely attach the rail to the wall.

      If the total rail length is not long enough to accommodate 2x the door width, you’re going to have a door sticks out past the opening. In this case you would have to get a longer rail and cut it down as needed. Hope that helps John!

  14. Joel Reyes

    What size of bolt did you use to mount the head board to the wall studs?

  15. Dee Harwood

    Hi. I want to do this in my dining room leading to the kitchen but I have chair rail and trim around the door. How can this be done? Also the door opening butts up to the corner of the room with maybe a 2 inch area for the header. Would this work?

  16. Steve

    Thanks man…. WE ARE


    Hey Rick – enjoyed watching your YouTube video on this, and stumbled across this site. Between the two, I have been able to adjust it to our needs. Ours is a little more complicated (OK, a lot). I am building bypass doors to cover our sliding glass patio door, replacing vertical blinds. I just couldn’t pull the trigger on $300+ for bypass hardware ALONE. So, I am improvising with some different brackets. And we are adding this to our mobile home/lake house. Which means the doors aren’t standard height. How did you determine the height of your door? I guess I missed that part.

  18. Tim

    Hi, I have an opening that is 47″. I made the door at 49″. I can’t decide if I need an 8ft rail or 9ft rail. I have plenty of room for the 9ft.

    1. Rick

      Hey Tim I’d for go for the 9ft kit.

  19. Anna

    Dear all, I am from Europe, can you help me to convert those measurements to cm or point out a source so I can do it myself? Totally don’t get it…

    Door Frame:
    2 – 1×6 @ 70-1/16″ (left, right)
    2 – 1×8 ripped to 1×7.25″@ 38″ (top, bottom)
    2 – 1×6 @ 38-1/2″ at 57.5 degrees (diagonal supports)
    8 – 1×6 T&G – Cut off excess material AFTER being attached to door frame with circular saw
    1 – 1×8 @ 80″
    1 – 1x8x8 Pine
    5 – 1x6x8 Pine
    8 – 1x6x8 Tongue & Groove Pine

    Many thanks!

  20. Luke

    Rick, I was wondering if you did plans for the 47″ door? I saw you mentioned you would if there was enough interest.

    1. Rick

      Hey Luke I’m sorry I have not! Just not enough interest at this point.

  21. Matt

    Hey Rick,

    Great plans! Getting ready t build my door for our bathroom reno. The only question I have for you is what size bolts did you use for the header board? I’m assuming they’re lag bolts?


    1. Rick

      Hey Matt thanks! I believe they were 3 or 3-1/2″ lags. Have fun with the build!

  22. Michelle

    Is the bolts holding door suppose to have any jiggle room or does the bolts suppose to fit tight .

  23. Edward

    Why do you use the circular saw to trim the boards down? It seems much easier to pre-cut them on a miter saw. Would it work either way, or is there a benefit of cutting post assembly?

  24. John M

    Hey Rick great tutorial!

    However I bought the 8′ hanging hardware based on the initial list, but realized just now I houldve gotten the 6’7″ hardware.

    Can I still use it to mount the door?

    1. Rick

      Hey John thanks! Yes you can. It will just be the 8′ bar vs the 6’7″ one. So as long as you’ve got the space for an 8′ bar, you’re golden. Good luck with the build!

  25. Porter

    Rick, great build! My studs do not fall 16” on center so I’ll be using a head board to lag to the studs. When you attached your rail to your headboard what bolts did you use?

    1. Rick

      Hi Porter thanks! I used the supplied bolts to go through the rail into the header. I bought extra bolts to secure the header to the studs. I counter-sunk said bolts and used a sharpie to color the head black so they matched the kit (even though they were hidden behind the rail). Hope that helps!

  26. Joanna

    Thanks Rick for your lovely instruction! Thanks to your video and the “recipe” I decided to make my own door in my new home. I have a few questions however:
    1. I wonder what is the size of your dooropening in the example? Specifically, I would like to know what is the (min.) suggested overlap/margin of the door over the wall when the door is closed?
    2. An one more question from my constructor: what is the weight of the door? Do we need some specific extra strong construction to hang the door?
    Thank you in advance for reply,

  27. Cindy Lawhon

    Hi Rick,
    I want to build the sliding barn door and have the 1×6 T&G pine, but need the finished product to measure 42″ wide. How would you handle the additional 4 inches from your original design? I could cut the end piece down to 4 inches which probably wouldn’t show since the door will be open much of the time. What do you think?

  28. Cindy

    I meant to say a 40″ door…..

  29. Chris

    How much wider than the door frame is the door?

  30. Lee Alvarez


    I really liked the details of the project, especially the list of lumber i would need. The lumber you identified were not exactly the specs i would need.

    I would like to create a custom barn door for a 42 wide by 92 inch high door. The width is actually 39 1/2 and the height was 91 1/2 tall.

    1. Sunil

      Hello Lee,
      Were you able to build your door? My door size is similar. And am planning to build it this weekend.

  31. Eugene Thompson

    Thanks so much Rick! I was going to look into buying a door and the prices are ridiculous. Did not think I had the skills to make a door either. But you have made look so simple. My door is 45 inches wide but I think I just need one more T&G and make my top and bottom cuts longer. I have to build three doors so I’m hoping to have it mastered by door 3 lol. Thanks for the lay out as well because I have watched the video several times and did not know where to put the 1X8 or the 1X6. I got it now.

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