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You are currently viewing Classic Queen Size Platform Bed Plans

It’s been three years since I built my original platform bed frame and like…seven years since I’ve had a new mattress. And I think we may be due for one soon. Yeah. So I decided to design plans for what I’m calling my classic queen size platform bed. It’s a bed frame. It’s classy. And it’s classic. Mostly because I said so. Just now. Just look at those legs. Totally classic!

color_clockTime Required:
Under $175
blue_toolsTools Required:
Kreg Right Angle Clamp
Kreg Jig & Accessories
Miter Saw
Table Saw/Circular Saw
Power Drill & Drill Bits
Wood Glue
Elmers Wood Filler
Power Sander or Sanding Block
Brad nailer
Sanding Paper
Foam Brush/Paint Brush
blue_cartPurchase List:
4 – 2 x 4 x 8′
2 – 2 x 3 x 8′ (side)
1 – 2 x 4 x 8′ (center)
17 – 1 x 3 x 8′ (slats)
4 – Jumbo English Country Coffee Table Leg (pine $20.68/each)
2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
1-1/4″ Brad Nails

blue_scissorsMaterial Cut List:
2 – 2 x 4 @ 74 (side)
2 – 2 x 4 @ 54 (front, back)
2 – 2 x 3 @ 74″ (Side slat supports)
1 – 2 x 4 @  78″ (Center slat support)
17 – 1 x 3 @ 57-7/8″ (Slats)
4 – Jumbo English Country Coffee Table Leg (18″ x 3½″ cut to 17″)
Center Legs
4 – 2 x 4 @ 14-7/8″ (will need to be cut down slightly after dry fit)

My classic queen size platform bed plans are made from simple framing materials found at any local big box store (home depot, lowes, menards, etc.) for a reasonable cost.

The build uses what’s called a Kreg Jig to connect the wood together. By using this tool, the builder can create VERY strong joints while concealing the hardware. The only caveats being that

A.You have to buy the Jig and
B.You CANNOT disassemble the bed after…assembling. So it’s permanent, just like our love.

You’re welcome to use other methods of joinery, such as nuts and bolts or traditional wood workery. I strongly encourage you to do you at all times. OK! Let’s get started!

Head on out and get the items listed on the material purchase list.

My list shows 8 foot stock, but if you can fit 10 or 12 foot stock in your vehicle, you can save some money and eliminate some waste. Because I’m truck-less ( 🙁 ) and my car only fits 8 footers, that’s what I have in my cut list!

If you don’t have a vehicle capable of transporting building materials and you have no friends or family from which to borrow, I would encourage you to join meetup.com or similar sites to get involved in local activities. In a few weeks/months you’ll have a network of friends and perhaps even start a FAMILY, giving you a father-in-law to bum tools off of and bond with. What once was hate from stealing away his little girl may morph into sweet love through DIY. How poetic.

Or just rent a truck from home depot for a couple of Jacksons.


Set your Kreg Jig to the proper drill guide material thickness and depth collar thickness. Familiarize yourself with the Kreg quick start guide because we’ll be using it ALL DAY! The proper setting for 2×4’s is 1-1/2″. Glue and screw your frame together using 2-1/2″ pocket screws.

Outside Legs
Using a miter or circular saw, cut 1″ off the top (square part) of the legs. New leg size should be 17″

Main Frame

After making all of your cuts, gather the four “Frame” 2×4’s.  Drill (2) holes on each end of each piece. These will be going directly into our legs.

Using wood glue and 2-1/2″ pocket screws, secure the legs to the frame. Keep your holes on the INSIDE of the frame. Have some decency! You’re a professional!

Side Supports

Now that we’re all framed out, go to your two side 2×4’s and measure and mark from the bottom of the frame 1/4″ up on each end. This is where we’re going to set our 2×3 support. It may be helpful to connect the lines using your 2×3 so you can follow the line when we attach it.

Take your “Side Support” 2×3’s and clamp/glue/screw them straight into the 2×4 frame using 2-1/2″ screws.

Center Support

Take your “center support” 2×4, stand it up in your kreg jig and drill (2) holes in each end.

On your frame, mark out 27″ from where the front and back 2×4 is connected to the leg. This is the center point of the bed. We’re going to attach the center 2×4 to the…CENTER OF THE BED! You were totally reading my mind just now weren’t you! We’re like twins or something weirder!

On our centerline mark (at 27″), measure 3/4″ down from the top of the frame and make a mark. This is where we’ll be attaching the 2×4 center support.

Glue and screw the 2×4 center support!

Center Legs

Using leftover/scrap 2×4’s, cut (4) @ 14-7/8″. These may be a little long, so you’ll have to dry fit them under the bed to make sure they match your leg height. Cut to size as required. Clamp, glue and screw (2) sets of legs using 2-1/2″ screws. (Essentially creating two 4×4 legs). Screw down through the center support 19-1/2″ from the front and back frame with 2-1/2″ screws.

Now that the frame is finished, you’re at a crossroad in your bed build. You may even call it a mid-bed crisis. Don’t freak out though. Embrace it. Own it. Your family will forgive you…eventually. You have an opportunity here to paint or stain and clear-coat the bed BEFORE bringing it into your room. I think you should think about doing this! OK, I’ll stop telling you how to live your life. Back to the build.

Slat time boys and girls. Get ready!

I like to install my slats in the bedroom, ladies. That’s right. It makes the bed much lighter to carry up flights of stairs! Think about it.

In my original platform bed build, I screwed in the slats. But what a waste of time and screws! Brad nails and/or a nail gun with brad nails is the way to go!

Starting from the back of the frame (where your head will be), place your first slat flush with the legs of the bed. Nail in place with 1-1/4″ brads, no glue!

Measure 1-1/2″ from the end of that slat on each side, and then secure your next slat. For every slat after that, go 2″ from the edge. This should line you up perfectly with the front two legs.

I’m really impressed with the classic queen size platform bed we’ve built together. We make such a great team, me and you. I and you. Me…us. Meus. Let’s meet back here soon for the headboard build, k?

I had some extra images so figured I’d throw these in the mix. Maybe push those maybe’ers over the edge once they see what’s under the hood of this beaut.

Or maybe a little birds’ eye for those who like to ‘mire from a far. (*cough* CREEPER!)

Or perhaps you’re into simulated 600-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets with a feather down duvet hand-made by only the most experienced child-laborers the 3rd world has to offer.



One stay at home dad (to be) conquers DIY and Diapers

This Post Has 6 Comments

  1. any pics of your finished product? thinking about building something similar but my legs are only 2 1/4″ wide so I have to do the math to adjust. I am trying to figure out if the bed slides around at all as there is no lip to keep it in place.Great directions and I cannot wait to see how mine will come out. Thanks for the great plans!

  2. Ryne

    What do we need to purchase as far as wood for the headboard on this bed?

    1. Lois

      Please provide measurements and materials needed for headboard.
      Thank you

  3. Christina

    What would the directions be for a king? I love this!

  4. Andrea Pina

    I have a question. Looking at the cutlist for the side boards and back and front boards for this bed. They match the size of a full size bed.
    Would the mattress fit exactly on top? And what is the the total height of the bed from the floor to the frame?
    I want to build this for my daughter who has a full size mattress. Full size bed is 54 by 75 and queen is usually 60 by 80.
    Thank you

  5. Johanna

    How do you attach the headboard?

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