Due to lack of space in the nursery, I designed my daughter’s changing table to be a jack of all trades. The design offers concealed storage space, cubby/bin storage space, a bookcase and of course enough room on top to accommodate a changing pad and supplies. I also had 2×6 FEVER from my platform bed build so it’s built like a tank to boot! So after years of USING and looking at the thing, I decided to draw up some Sketchup changing table plans for you. Yes, YOU!
+ The final design was drawn up to accommodate these specific storage bin/cubes and this changing pad. The bins measure 9″ x 11″ x 10″ and changing pad is 16″ x 32″ x 4″. If you decide to go with different bins or changing pads just make sure that the sizes match.
+ Please refer to the build process if you’d like to see me go through this build step by step and provide some tips/tricks/insight. I’d flip back and forth between the plans and the build as needed. I’d also start flossing daily too if I were you, but you do you.
+ This design also works as an AWESOME storage/shelving/media unit! That’s what we use it for now that the girls are past the changing table stage.
When I first posted the build process, a few commenters brought up that this changing table design doesn’t have sides to hold the pad in place. Some were concerned about my baby girl falling off the changing table. Now don’t get me wrong, I appreciate the concern and all things regarding the safety of my girls! But let me explain why this wasn’t a big deal (or a problem when I used it for both my girls)…
First off, never walk away from the changing table while your future caretaker is on it…like EVER! You’ll need this human to take care of you when you’re super old, forgetful and not particularly good looking!
Secondly, our changing pad came with an adjustable strap that wraps around the changing table to keep it secure.
And third, even in designs that have the edges to hold changing pad (as seen above), your baby can still fall off if you walk away like a goof. The sides aren’t there to protect your baby from falling! They’re just a design element to hold the pad in place. Some designs DO have higher sides and backs, but the baby can still fall forward.
Even so, if you’d like to add in a 1/4″ box to enclose changing pad, I left 1/2″ in the width of the table to allow for it. I’m such a nice guy! First flossing and now this!
OK! With all that out of the way, let’s get to it.
Here’s the material purchase list:
9 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ SPF (Spruce, Pine, Fir) = $45 (+/- $4.54/ea @ HD)
+ If you can transport longer pieces of wood, you can save some money. You can check the math on the material cut list and see how many ten or twelve footers you need. For your reference, I fit all of these 2×6’s in a 2010 Chevy Impala.
+ Be sure not to get the outdoor treated wood. The chemically treated stuff has a green hue to it. What we do want is kiln dried, heat treated or HT.
Here’s the material cut list:
6 @ 29″ (legs)
6 @ 48-1/2″ (bottom, middle)
3 @ 51-1/2″ (top)
9 @ 9″ (cubby dividers)
3 @ 12-7/8″ (middle divider)
3 @ 17-1/4″ (small top shelf)
– Kreg Jig or Kreg Jig Mini
– 2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
– Wood Glue
– Wood Filler
– Cordless Drill
– Compound Miter Saw
– Power Sander or Sanding Block
– Carpenters Square
– Tape Measure
– Eye, ear & dust protection
+ Set your Kreg Jig to the proper drill guide material thickness and depth collar thickness. Familiarize yourself with the Kreg quick start guide because we’ll be using it all day. That’s right, ALL DAY! The proper setting for 2×6’s 1-1/2″.
+ One final note before we begin. We’re going to be drilling A LOT of holes that will need to be filled with wood filler. It’s good practice to fill, let dry and sand down any joined 2×6’s before attaching them to one another. I opted to do all of my wood filling LAST and it was hilariously time consuming. Don’t be like me, kids.
Let’s get to cutting this changing table up!
Grab your tape measure, pencil and compound miter saw…
Cut your legs, top, middle and bottom pieces to the specified sizes.
From the leftovers of your big cuts, cut your cubby dividers, middle divider and top shelf. All of this is optional by the way. You can totally add/remove dividers and shelves to fit your needs.
Set aside your first (3) 29″ leg pieces and setup the Kreg drill bit set to accommodate 2″ material. Double check the Kreg Quick Start Guide to make sure you’re setting up the bit/jig correctly (I do it all the time). Predrill (4) holes into the sides of the first and second of the three boards. Drill your first holes 2-1/2″ from the top and bottom and then every 8″. Repeat this for the second set of leg pieces. Once you’re done drilling, glue and screw the boards together!
Next up grab your (3) bottom shelf 2×6’s that were cut to 48-1/2″. Predrill 4-1/4″ from each end and then every 8″. Repeat this for the 48-1/2″ middle shelf as well. Once all of the boards are predrilled, glue and screw with your 2-1/2″ pocket screws.
Stand up your shelves vertically and predrill (2) holes 1″ off of each board end. Repeat on the other side of the bottom shelf. We will NOT be doing this for the middle shelf!
Measure 4″ in and mark edge to edge using a straight edge (Carpenters Square or just use your tape). Line up the bottom of your shelf to the 4″ mark. Glue and screw your bottom shelf into the legs. Note that the screw holes should be facing the ground so they’re hidden.
Your table should be able to stand on it’s own legs now! Who knew you’d raise such a normal young shelf! Seriously, we’re all very surprised! Anyway, let’s stand it up and let’s get the cubby dividers installed. Predrill and join your (3) sets of cubby dividers as indicated above.
Once the dividers are joined, predrill the front and back so we can connect the divider to the bottom shelf.
Glue and screw the cubby dividers in place using either the center line placement (bottom) or end to end measurements provided above. The CL measurement goes from the end of each leg to the center of each divider, while the end to end goes from the end of the leg to the end of each divider. There’s no wrong way! Or is there?! No, I’m just messing with you. Either one works. CL will probably be easier though…
Place the joined middle shelf on top of the now secured cubby dividers. We’re going to pre-drill down from the top of the middle shelf into the cubby dividers using a drill bit slightly smaller in thickness than our pocket screws. I want to say 1/8″ but double check me on that! Next use your Kreg bit to countersink the hole about 1/4″ in depth. Secure the shelf using 2-1/2″ pocket screws and glue.
+ The reason we’re countersinking the screws is so we can use wood filler to hide the holes when all is said and done. Repeat this to secure the middle shelf to the remaining cubby dividers.
+ Join your (3) 51-1/2″ 2×6’s using the same method we used with the bottom and middle shelves. This time put your first pilot holes 5-3/4″ off of each end and every 8″ thereafter.
Turn your Kreg Jig upside down, clamp and predrill the holes 1″ off the end of each 2×6 as pictured above. Glue and screw the top of the changing table to the legs.
+ Join your (3) 12-7/8″ 2×6’s the same way we joined the cubby dividers. Put your pilot holes 1″ off of each end and one in the center.
Once joined, predrill the front and back (just as we did with the cubby divider installation) so we can connect the divider to middle and top shelves of our changing table. Pictured above are the pilot holes for the back, top. If you feel like you need to add more screws to the top and bottom for added stability, feel free to do so.
During my build I didn’t have any wood movement using just these (4) screws and glue, so I wasn’t concerned. If I recall correctly, I was more concerned about my abilities to properly raise another living THING at the time. Heavy stuff. So why don’t you chill out. Things aren’t so bad!
Small Top Shelf
+ Join the (3) 17-1/4″ small top shelf 2×6’s as we’ve been joining the other shelf and cubby dividers.
Predrill 1″ off each end of your (3) 2×6’s as pictured. Set your shelf top 3″ down from the changing table top. Glue and screw once your shelf is lined up and level on all sides.
If there are any holes you have yet to wood fill and sand down, you’ve got some work ahead of you! For everyone else, that’s a wrap! Sand, paint, stain, floss, the world is your oyster!
I think these changing table plans took longer to make than actually BUILDING THE THING! Hah. Oh and I have to say…the coolest thing about this changing table is that as the kids learn and grow and start to talk back, the table grows too. No, not literally! Our changing table has morphed from a utility station with storage, to a bookshelf, to an entertainment unit under the TV. Not bad for about $50 in materials! And of course labor is always free when you DIY! You’re so nice to work for free! We should hang out and commiserate sometime.
If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below. And if you want to help a DIY’er out, share this plan!