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In my spare time I’ve been building and writing up plans for a farmhouse table. My inspiration comes from Anthropologie’s, “Modern Farmhouse Table”. My farmhouse table is a more classic approach to the modern farmhouse table that was actually based on a classic farmhouse table. Yeah! Exactly! Whatever.

In this post you’ll find a link to download the FREE .PDF plan along with my step-by-step project guide so you can build your own CLASSIC farmhouse table.

Classic Farmhouse Table Plan

Download the .PDF plan to build a classic farmhouse table.

How to Build a Farmhouse Table

Material Purchase list:
5- 1x8x8 Pine (Table-Top)
4- 4x4x8 Douglas Fir (Base & Legs)
2- 2x3x8 Pine Studs (Base Support)

Hardware Purchase list:
•    1-1/2”    Kreg “course” screws
•    2”           Kreg “course” screws
•    2-1/2”    Kreg “course” screws
•    Mounting Brackets (Connects table top to base)

Paint, Stain & Finish Purchase list:
•    RustOleum Ultimate Wood Stain “Early American”
•    Anitas Acrylic Craft Paint “11306 Antique White”
•    Minwax Polycrylic Semi-Gloss
•    Cheap Paint Brush
•    Old tupperware container to hold paint

Tools Required:
•    Kreg Jig Set
•    Drill
•    Circular Saw
•    Compound Miter Saw*
•    Table Saw*
•    Sander & Sand paper for your style of sander
•    80, 220 Grit Sheet Sand paper
•    Wood Glue
•    Wood Filler
•    2-4 Medium Duty Clamps (Mine are anywhere from 12” to 24”, but use what you have)
•    Framing Square

*    Miter box can be used if no power miter saw available
*    Table Saw can be avoided if 4×4’s are not ripped to 3×3’s

•    Eye Protection
•    Dust Mask

Cut list:


Legs & Base
•    Rip (cut with the grain) enough 4×4 stock to 3×3 to accommodate the following:

3×3 –
8 @ 12” —–> 45° cut on each end
1 @ 62-1/4”
2 @ 24-1/8”

4×4 –
4 @ 30” —–> 45° cut on each end; 90° cut 1” in on each end

2×3 –
1 @ 62-1/4”
2 @ 62-1/4” —–> 30° cut on each end

Table Top
1×8 –
5 @ 84” *Wait to cut to size until after table top has been joined

I printed out a picture of the table that inspired me to create my own. Ignore the markings, as I changed most of them after several edits, mind changings and what have yous.

This is a pile of cheap lumba (refer to the .PDF plan for the material purchase list).

The Table-top

In order to join the table like the pros, I picked up some 60″ galvanized pipe and bright red clamps (bright red clamps sold separately, batteries not included). They never are anymore, are they?

I lay my first two boards in, flip the outermost board on it’s side and run a bead of wood glue along the piece. Here I show myself pretending to use the brush to spread the glue around…but this photo is a lie. I totally used my finger. Use a brush though, if you’re scared. You’re scared, aren’t you! Don’t be scared. It’s only glue.

I used the two scrap boards (pictured on the right) to lay on the seam and stood on the boards as I tightened each clamp. This keeps the center from bowing up and your joined pieces flush. And like the pros, I located the heaviest stuff I could find and threw it on the new joint so that my table-top would be flat.

After an hour or so I come back and do the next set of two boards…

Oh hey there last lil’ fella…yes you there on the end. JOIN US!

He joined us.

I measured 4 inches in from this side and used a framing square to line up my marks. Next I used my circular saw to make the cut on the guide line. From the cut end I measure out 84″ on the two outer-most boards. Again I used my straight edge to connect the guide lines and my circular saw to make the cut.

Here’s the table top all ready to be sanded! I sand the top and sides of table top with 80 grit paper. I used an orbit sander, but use what you have. Next I sand with a 220 grit paper to get the table top smooth and ready for finishing.

I applied RustOleum “Early American” stain with an old rag while wearing gloves. Go here to check out my staining process.

The Base & Legs

Here’s the basic gist of what our legs & base are going to look like. Check out the images below for a bit more clarity and don’t be afraid to ask some questions in the comments. I think you’ll find that as you make the appropriate cuts, things start falling into place…falling apart!

I cut the 4×4’s on an angle and use the remnant piece as a guide to make all of my subsequent cuts. I draw a line where the guide hits my piece, line up the blade and…CHOP! er..MITER!

Our friend farthest on the left is just after the cut, his buddies to the right have been sanded smooth with 80 grit sandpaper. There will be (4) “base” pieces total.

This is one of the (8) support 3×3’s.

As you can see the actual real-life base is beginning to look like the fake blueprint base! A good ting too. Don’t mess with me wood!

Umm…oh. Here’s the 3×3 middle support I’ve been talking so much about. I threw in 4 pilot holes on each side and used 2-1/2″ screws to secure the middle to the base 4×4’s.

Here’s a more detailed look.

Always wood gluein’ before screwin’. Just so ya know.

Here are the 2″ down 1″ deep pre-drilled pilot holes. I go straight into the leg and straight down into the base. Afterwards I put (2) applications of wood putty to cover my tracks.

I got the middle 2×3 in place and used the Kreg Jig to attach each side.

Here’s a close-up. I use 2″ screws here.

As you can see, I painted and distressed the pieces before assembling them. It’s way too super hard to paint in tight spaces. Paint first.

In this photo I’m roughing in the 2×3 middle supports. I cut them at a 30 degree angle with my miter saw.

Once I got everything screwed, glued, wood putty’d, painted and distressed, I threw on the table top to see how everything looked together. I think it looks BEAUTIFUL!

Another angle of my CLASSIC farmhouse table! Next up: The finishing coat and mounting brackets! Stay tuned!






One stay at home dad (to be) conquers DIY and Diapers

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