Build a King-Sized Platform Bed

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This week I set out to ditch our box-springs and get low! Read more to find out how to build your own king sized platform bed.


Difficulty:
Beginner


Time Required:
Weekend


Cost:
Under $100

KingQueenFullTwinTools RequiredSafetyRelated Posts

King Size Mattress (76″ x 80″)
Purchase List:

Lumber:
4 – 2 x 6 x 8′ Pine Studs (main frame)
3 – 2 x 4 x 8′ Pine Stud (left, center & right supports)
20 – 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (slats)
3 – 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (top trim)
1 – 1 x 2 x 8′ Pine Board (back trim optional since it’s not visible)
1 – 4 x 4 x 8′ Douglas Fir (legs)

*Do not purchase treated lumber! The chemically treated stuff is intended for outdoor use and has a green hue to it.
Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut)
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @ 78″ (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @ 79″ (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @ 79″ (outside)
1 – 2×4 @ 79″ (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @ 83″ (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @ 75″ (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @ 75″
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Queen Size Mattress (60″ x 80″) Coming Soon
Purchase List:

Lumber:
 – 2x6x8′ Framing Lumber (frame)
– 2x3x8′ Framing Lumber (slat supports, center support legs)
– 1x4x8′ Pine (slats)
– 4x4x8′ Doug Fir or Pine (legs) 

Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Wood Stain
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @  (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @  (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @  (outside)
1 – 2×4 @  (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @  (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @  (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Full Size Mattress (54″ x 74″) Coming Soon
Purchase List:

Lumber:
 – 1x6x8′ Pine (frame)
– 2x3x8′ Framing Lumber (slat supports)
– 1x4x8′ Pine (slats)
– 2x2x4′  (legs)

Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Wood Stain
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @  (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @  (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @  (outside)
1 – 2×4 @  (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @  (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @  (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Twin Size Mattress (39″ x 74″) Coming Soon
Purchase List:

Lumber:
 – 1x6x8′ Pine (frame)
– 2x3x8′ Framing Lumber (slat supports)
– 1x4x8′ Pine (slats)
– 2x2x4  (legs)

Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Wood Stain
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @  (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @  (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @  (outside)
1 – 2×4 @  (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @  (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @  (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Clamps
Kreg Right Angle Clamp
Kreg Jig & Accessories
Miter Saw or Circular Saw
Power Drill & Drill Bits
Wood Glue
Elmers Wood Filler
Power Sander or Sanding Block
Sanding Paper
Speed Square
Foam Brush/Paint Brush

*Not sure of the best tools for the job? Check out my article on beginners tools: Tools for New DIYers

• Keep in mind this is for a king size mattress.
• Not every king size mattress is the same! Double check your dimensions to make sure they’ll work with this build! I have a Serta memory foam mattress.
• I included a FAQ section at the bottom of the post. Please read through this and any of the comments before asking a question!
• Please GO HERE for the updated 2015 king-sized platform bed plans! They’re BETTER! Come back here to see my build process for each corresponding step!


The main frame is 2″x6″ with a centered 2″x4″ set down 1-1/4″ for stability. I have a 2″x3″ along each side set down 1-1/4″ to hold the planks (which hold up the bed). For the legs I picked up some beefy 4x4s. All in all, it was $75 for the wood.


First time using the Kreg Jig.


Pretty cool!


Cutting down the 2x6s…

frame.cut
Cut your front and back 2×6’s to 78″ and your sides to 79″.


Before attaching each joint, I check for square!

cut.support
Cut the center 2×4 to 79″ and the outer 2×3’s to 79″ as well.


Filled in any major gaps & cracks


Just going to rest my eyes for a little bit…

Next up I’ll be sanding & staining! Stayed tuned…


Sanding, staining and throwing on poly actually takes quite a bit of time. But ya know what? I did it. I even made some legs…cause I was bored!


4×4 legs are cut to 4″!


Close-up.


They sit nicely under the slat supports.


Look at that baby bump! Okay so the slats are cut to 75″. There are 19 slats total.


Showing a little leg.

Now I’m going to beat up the wood…don’t judge me!


Triple bagged some screws, nuts and bolts…


It randomizes the marks…


This trim is about to be…


Stained! I brushed water on the wood first to give the stain a more uneven look.

trim.cut
Cut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 75″. Cut the side 1×3’s to 83″. Attach the trim with 1″ brad nails. Pre-drilled with a small bit before nailing and they’ll go in like butter!


Clamping, gluing and nailing…and paint bucketing?! I need more clamps! Set your trim flush with the inside edge of the 2×6 frame.


3-1/2″ screws do the trick. Pre-drill before you screw the legs.


Another close-up of the legs/trim


The final coat of poly is on and I’ve hijacked the legs for…


You guessed it, more staining and poly.


…Annnnd I’m back with the final bedframe update!


After cutting and sanding the slats with 80/120 grit paper, I brought them to the bedroom and threw them in the frame.


I took a scrap piece of 2×6 to use as a spacer for the slats. I tweaked the spacing of a few slats to make sure they fell over top of the two middle support legs.


I drilled a screw in each piece a quarter of the way down and then alternated sides with the spacer.


And here’s the final bed-frame, without any fancy pillow or comforter…

Next up I’m going to design and build the headboard, so stay tuned!


Alright, I’m back with the headboard photos! Check em out!

 

To check out how the headboard was made, click here!


And here’s how the bed looks in the new bedroom!
bed4

bed1

Please read both the FAQ and comments below for answers to any of the questions you have regarding this build. If you don’t see your question answered, comment and I’ll do my best to clear things up! I really want to help you make a kick ass platform bed.

xoxo rick

Frequently Asked Questions:

How do I attach the legs?
The legs rest under the 2×3 slat supports and are attached to the main frame using 3-1/2″ screws. Pre-drill into the 4×4 legs about 2″ and then screw.

What stain did you use? I LOVE IT!
This stain is super loveable, I agree. The stain is “Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut)”.

How did you achieve that look with the stain?

For the stain I used the water/stain method used in the pallet headboard build. Here’s a breakdown of the process: I filled up an old Tupperware container about half way with water and physically brushed the water onto the wood. Since wood is porous, it will absorb the water first, then the stain second. By putting more water on (i.e. completely saturating the wood), the less stain will be able to be absorbed.

Then I immediately stained (with a separate brush). This is messy, so make sure you work on an old tarp or something.

To achieve different tones: Darkest: Stain with a brush, immediately wipe off excess stain with rag. Medium: Brush some water, then brush stain and wipe accordingly. Lightest: Saturate with water, brush on stain and wipe.

Did you use a clearcoat or wax…or something?
YEP! I applied (3) coats of satin polyurethane.

Umm…this is my first project. I don’t know how to apply polyurethane…
Here’s my process: After allowing ample time for the stain to dry, wipe off and/or shop-vac your wood to make sure there’s no dust. Grab a paintbrush or one of those cheap foam brushes and apply a generous first coat with the grain (see here). Let that coat dry (1-2 hrs depending on temp/humidity) and then lightly sand with a fine grit sandpaper (200 or 220 should do the trick). If the clear-coat is still sticky, you need more drying time! Then apply your 2nd coat, let dry, sand. Repeat one more time for a really consistent clear-coat, except do not sand after the 3rd coat. You’re done! Here’s the stuff I’d recommend, but don’t buy it from Amazon. Run to Lowes and you’ll get it much cheaper. As far as I know, Home Depot does not carry this brand. The Minwax stuff works is fine too, though.

Does the frame squeak?
Nope! 2×6’s are solid!

129 COMMENTS

  1. Like this a lot! Nice work! What where the frame dimensions? Assuming your king was 76″ by 80″. Also did you screw everything from the inside so it could be broken down with out having to fill in screw holes?

    • Thanks Ryan! I’m not sure the exact dimensions off the top of my head (and the bed is in storage at the moment) but those sound pretty close. I did screw/glue/fill all the holes from the inside, so there’s no taking it apart. Though if you used some heavy duty nuts/bolts I’m sure you could go that direction so it’s easier to break down/move. Because it’s HEAVY!

  2. project looks great. I was curious what type of matress do you put on the frame? I am looking to build something like this, but am going to be using a memory foam mattress. Do you think this would hld a memory foam mattress pretty well?

    • Taylor- Thank you! I have a Serta memory foam mattress and haven’t had any problems (and it’s been over a year), so I think you should be alright. That being said, if for some reason the slats don’t provide enough support for your mattress, you can always fill in the gaps with more slats!

  3. Thanks for the reply. What kind of planks did you use for the slats? I didn’t see the type of dimensions in your description.

    • No problem! The slats are cheap 1″x3″ pine that I cut to size and sanded down. The next bed I build (a Queen sized platform) I’m going to use “select” pine 1×3’s as they’re straighter, smoother and stronger. The downside is they’re more expensive!

    • Samantha- Here’s the material purchase list. I should probably add this to the post!

      4- 2x6x8′ Pine Studs (main frame)
      2- 2x3x8′ Pine Studs (slat supports)
      1- 2x4x8′ Pine Stud (center support)
      20-1x3x8′ Pine Boards (slats)
      3- 1x3x8′ Pine Boards (top trim)
      1- 4x4x8′ Douglas Fir (legs)

      *Be sure not to get the outdoor treated wood. The chemically treated stuff has a green hue to it.

      Good luck, let me know if you run into any issues!

      • Hi Rick, Great plans. is there enough room for standard king mattress with the 79×75 inches. I just wanted to make sure because my brother in law told me king mattress was 80×76. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks

        • Hello Rick, standard king size mattresses are 76 x 80. if the slats are 75″ how can the mattress sit in the frame? should the width 2×6 be a bit longer . Also is there a reason for the 2×3 side pcs vs 2×4”s . Thanks John

          • Hey John the slats are smaller than the I.D. of the frame so that they can fit. The updated plans (linked at the top of the page) uses 2×4’s instead of 2×3’s.

      • Could I add 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 supports for more security with large sleepers? Also perhaps 6-8″ long 4×4 legs because it is hard for them to get out of a really low bed?

    • Shahram- The bed is squeak free! The 2×6 construction with center supports are extremely stable. The stain is “Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut)”. This is what it looks like, but you can pick it up at Lowes for much less. Home Depot doesn’t carry Rust-Oleum stains. Glad you like it and good luck!

    • Will- The legs rest under the 2×3 slat supports and are attached to the main frame using 3-1/2″ screws. Pre-drill into the 4×4 legs about 2″ and then screw. The center support legs look like this.

  4. not very informative – some king size mattress dim. vary from one country to the next – so it would be good to have that included – the standard North American bed frame needs a little finger room on the sides in order to flip a mattres every so often if you have that type. Therefore consider that width when building your frame. Also if your adding a skirt around the frame then there is no need for trim or it will appear ackward.
    Yes it would have been convient to have a cut list for the first time DIYer’s.
    Also, if the bed is sitting on manufactured wood floor or 3/4 hardwood I suggest glueing felt to the 4×4 blocks as not scratch the floor if the bed is moved. On carpet floors the 4×4 blocks are going to leave a massive dent in the carpet that will take forever to spring back if the bed is removed. Place spiked carpet savers under the legs – you make them out 3x3x1/4″plywood and roofing nails, length of nails is pending on the thickness of the carpet and underlay, driven through and formed in either a H or O pattern. These will allow the legs to sit just above the carpet without adding pressure to the carpet material. Remember to lift the bed up and remove these prior to relocating the bed otherwise the nails will tear the backing weave of the carpet and create a run.

    • Dave- I’m sorry you didn’t find my 32-image-project-log-with-detailed-step-by-step-explainations very informative! That’s the whole point of my doing this! Maybe I should retire? Wait…I am retired!

      In any case, you bring up a good point with the fact that mattress sizes do indeed vary. That was why I originally did not provide a cut list-I didn’t want to provide a cut list that was tailored to my mattress size and pass it off as universal to all king-sized mattresses. Though at this point due to the amount of requests for one, I will be adding a cut list shortly. I promise! As for your other notes, thank you so much. Your advanced knowledge of the way carpet reacts to heavy furniture is unparalleled!

  5. Hi Rick, Like everyone else…well maybe all but one…I’m excited to tackle this myself. back to the corner legs though, are they screwed from the outside or right through the legs to the frame or down from the slat support piece into the top of the leg? Sorry if I’m missing somthing here. And for staining, did you just use stain or did you top coat with a polyurethane?

    P.s. I made the mistake of showing your stuff to my wife and I’ll be using your change table idea after this too.

    Thanks.

    • Ryan- Great questions! Sorry this wasn’t pictured, it’s an important step. I screwed into the main 2×6 frame through the legs with 3-1/2″ screws from the inside. Two screws per leg. What I did was pre-drill through the 4″ legs with a bit slightly smaller diameter than the screws. Completely through as to avoid any of the wood cracking. Then I pre-drilled with a bit that was slightly larger in diameter than the screws. I went into the legs about an inch and a half in depth. What I’m trying to achieve here is a “deep countersinking” (is that even a thing?) where the screw has a good hold on legs, but gets into the 2×6 support piece at proper depth. What you can do is take your freshly cut leg, orient it like you’re going to screw it to the frame, then put it right up next to the frame. Lay your screw on top and see how deep you’ll have to “countersink” it to get the screw to proper depth (we don’t want your screw popping out of the frame!) Alternatively, you could use bigger screws…! And just pre-drill and screw. Pictures are worth a thousand words, and I’ll be keeping that in mind when I update this post!

      For the stain I used a water/stain method you can check out here (8 comments down and the 4 after that pertain to the specifics of my process). After that I applied (3) coats of satin polyurethane. Are you familiar with the poly process?

      You’ve got your work cut out for you buddy! But I have to tell ya, the changing table was one of the most rewarding (and HEAVY) things I’ve ever built. And now that my daughter is too big for it, we’ve converted it into the coolest bookshelf/toy storage unit in Southwest Ohio!

      Thanks for the questions and good luck, I hope this helps! Keep me posted if you get stuck!

  6. Hi Rick, I get the leg process now. That makes a lot of sense, thanks.

    I read your staining posts, Check. But no , I’m not familiar with the poly process. is it just a matter of allowing for proper drying time?

    I love how dedicated you are to answering questons. Keep the projects coming.

    • Ryan- Glad to clarify things! The polyurethane seems daunting at first, but it’s pretty painless once you’ve got the process down. Here’s my process: After allowing ample time for the stain to dry, wipe off and/or shop-vac your wood to make sure there’s no dust. Grab a paintbrush or one of those cheap foam brushes and apply a generous first coat with the grain (see here). Let that coat dry (1-2 hrs depending on temp/humidity) and then lightly sand with a fine grit sandpaper (200 or 220 should do the trick). If the clear-coat is still sticky, you need more drying time! Then apply your 2nd coat, let dry, sand. Repeat one more time for a really consistent clear-coat, except do not sand after the 3rd coat. You’re done! Here’s the stuff I’d recommend, but don’t buy it from Amazon. Run to Lowes and you’ll get it much cheaper. As far as I know, Home Depot does not carry this brand. The Minwax stuff works is fine too, though.

      Thanks! Will do…once we get out of these sub-zero temperatures!

  7. So I bought all the supplies and noticed you still don’t have a cut list. Anyway this can happen soon? Ready to tackle this but have no clue where to start!

  8. Thanks for the cut list!

    How much space did you leave between the top of the bed railing and the slat support rail? I realize you rest the legs on the bottom of the rail but I don’t see any mention of how much space you leave for the slat support rail from either the top or the bottom side rail. Not sure if I’m making much sense with this question.

    Question about sanding between poly coats. Can of poly says sanding in between coats isn’t necessary so curious why you recommend it?

    • Hey Kristopher – The center 2×4 and side 2×3 supports are set down 1-1/4″. The slats fit nicely and leave space for the mattress to slide in. Regarding sanding in-between coats…I know the poly label says it’s not necessary, but I find it makes the 2nd and 3rd coats go on more even and gives you a smoother finish. Technically it’s not necessary, but I found sanding to be worth the extra effort in the end.

  9. Trim –
    I see you attach the trim with 1″ brad nails. Approximately what is the spacing for the nails or about how many nails per trim board do you think you used?
    Curious why nails versus screws? Due to less chance of splitting perhaps?
    Did you just follow the wood glue guide for dry time or do you have an estimate?

    Slats –
    You mentioned that you screwed the slats into place but I can’t find anything about screw size. I’m sure I could figure this out on my own but would like to know what size you used?

    Trim and slats are my last things to do and then I’m done with the frame and on to the headboard! I’m sure I will hassle you about that also but I love how simple this is as I’m a newbie!!

    • Hey Kris! The spacing on the brad nails doesn’t have to be perfect. A nail every 8 inches or so will do. Be sure to pre-drill to avoid any of the wood cracking. I didn’t use screws because the trim won’t be holding any weight or bearing any structural load (making nails and glue sufficient). The glue dry time really depends on temp/humidity so I would keep the trim clamped until after you pre-drill and nail things down.

      The slat screws were just 1″ wood screws (or pocket screws). If you only have 1-1/2″ or 1-1/4″ screws, they’ll work too. It wouldn’t hurt to pre-drill the holes for these as well to avoid any cracking on your slats (which could damage the mattress if the wood kicks up). Make sure your pre-drill holes aren’t too big so the screws are still snug!

      You’re at the finish line! Great job! You’re going to get the best night of sleep ever after this build (I’m speaking from experience)! Hahah. Let me know how things go.

  10. Got it done and I must say it looks fantastic!

    Just wanted to mention that the cut list for the 2 center support legs is incorrect or at least they were incorrect for mine. I made mine 6 3/4.

    Anyway, thanks for the plans and I am really happy that it turned out great as this is my first project. Now on to the headboard!!

    • Great to hear! Thanks for the center support feedback, I’ll update the post with the correct sizes. Glad everything worked out! I think you’ll find once you add the headboard it will really transform the room it’s in.

  11. Hiya! Just wondering how you put the main frame together – ie how did you join the peices of timber together (and also, how did you attach the support rails to the main frame). Thanks!

    • Marja- I joined the pieces using wood glue, the Kreg Jig and pocket screws. The support rails were glued/screwed straight into the main frame.

  12. Rick,

    I was just a little curious if you had the dimensions and supplies needed for the headboard? By the way, I appreciate the workmanship!

    • Hey Thanks Drew! Check this post out for all the info needed on the headboard. If you run into any problems during your build be sure to leave a comment there and I can help you along!

  13. Rick
    I was wondering if you have to use a kreg jig and if you have to use screws or nails to do this project I plan on making this as soon as I can get the ok from my husband to let me do this as our bed just sits on the floor right now and would love to do this for our bed thank you so much

    • Hi Felishia- You can use whatever you’d like, but I highly recommend using pocket screws with a Kreg Jig. There’s a slight learning curve, but trust me, you’ll be just fine! What are the benefits? Well, you won’t have any screws showing on the outside of your furniture as all of the screws will be inside the frame. Over time, screws and glue will hold up REALLY well, whereas nails can loosen over time. This is the set I would get and while it seems like a lot right now, it will MORE THAN pay for itself once you catch the furniture making bug!

  14. Rick, I am also a little confused on how the support for the slats get attached to the main frame. Do you attach it to the bottom? Also could I put higher legs on or would it not make it as sturdy? Thanks!

    • Hi Rose! The support for the slats gets screwed straight into the main 2×6 frame. I probably wouldn’t put the legs more than an inch or two higher than directed in the guide. Hope that helps!

  15. Hi Rick! My husband loved your DIY! He’s in the process of building the frame right now! I have another question however..we have the same 3 windows above our bed and I was wondering what you did for window coverings. They look quite blacked out in the photo. Please help!!

    • Hi Nicole! How’s the bed frame build going? Most of the master bedroom pictures were actually taken at night, so that’s why they appear blacked out. I used etched lace window film on some downstairs window and not only does it look nice, but it lets enough light in and keeps enough out. I recommend you check out something like this!

  16. Hey Rick! This is so great! My question for you is do you think the legs could be attached flush with the frame for little to no gap for stuff to collect under the bed? I’m trying to find a solution to my sweet pup rolling all her toys under the bed! Also, would you use box springs or no? My guess is no, but to each his own:)

    • Hi Kristen! No, you’re great! Haha. OK so I would *maybe* take an inch off the legs if you’re looking to close the gap between the frame and the floor. Admittedly I’ve lost a few of my daughter’s toys under the bed so I hear what you’re saying. The thing is you would be unable to clean under the bed (without moving the whole frame) if you drop it down much more, so keep that in mind. I ditched my box springs and used the slat system (outlined in this post) because I was sick of climbing up on my bed and loved the minimalist look of a low profile frame. It’s completely up to you but this bed was designed to not require box springs. Hope that helps a bit!

  17. What are your thoughts on instead of 19 wooden slats as support, instead screwing down solid plywood or some other kind of solid board?

    • Dianna- From my understanding a solid board as opposed to slats would be a bad idea due to the lack of airflow to the mattress. While you sleep your body heats up and could create moisture at the bottom of your mattress that would be unable to escape. Think about a box spring, they have that black mesh material that is breathable. Slats allow for the moisture to escape while providing ample support for the mattress. Hope that helps!

  18. Love the bed! Can a person still put the box springs on the platform is they put a raised rail on the sides to hold them in place? Love the rustic charm of the design and looking for something different. Thanks for the directions! Bev

  19. Ian – Build to your specs and everyone is very happy with the result and thanks for putting me onto the KREG system I will be using this jointing system a lot now. Thanks again for taking the time to post your concepts.

    • Ian- That’s really great to hear! No problem at all! The e-mails and comments I receive about success stories are what makes this so much fun and worth it. The Kreg system really is awesome, too!

    • Hi Hannah!

      I just posted a queen size bed guide but with 1x8s rather than 2x6s. You could adjust the the king size to fit your queen mattress, OR adjust the queen build to work with 2×6’s. If you don’t really care about the material thickness, you could apply whatever your preferred finish is to the queen size bed. Stain it rather than paint it, for example. Hope that helps! Thanks so much for the kind words, good luck!

  20. Rick, great project and appreciate all the updates since inception.
    Quick question on the support slats, why is the center a 2×4 and the side supports are 2×3? Is this to allow room for the legs at the corners?

    • Hey Pablo- While I’m sure I had a reason when I made the plans, at this point it seems fairly arbitrary. Probably because I was so new to using the Kreg Jig and was unsure of the optimal way to attach the supports. Don’t get me wrong-the 2x3s work just fine…BUT!

      You can absolutely use 2×4’s for the side slat supports. In fact, in my latest project plan for a queen platform bed, I used 2×4’s instead. The benefit is that the 4×4 legs sit flush on the 2×4, whereas on the 2×3 they have a tendency to “kick up” before they’re glued and screwed in. That extra inch really makes a difference. Check out how I did it on the queen bed build and you’ll see what I mean. Sorry for any confusion and I hope this helped!

  21. Hi Rick, this looks amazing and I am thinking of doing it. I have read all the comments but the one thing I haven’t seen asked is the weight limit. Is there a weight limit associated with this bed? If there is, is there a way to use different lumber to have the weight limit to be higher?

    • Hi Breezie!

      To be honest, I have no idea what the weight limit is on this bed frame. What I can say is that it’s the sturdiest bed I’ve ever been on. The 2×6 frame is incredibly strong. (they build houses out of this stuff, after all!) The 4×4 legs and center supports and being so low to the ground help, too.

      My frame has been through three relocations and is still as solid as it was the day I first brought it upstairs. If you’re concerned, you could certainly use a stronger wood (perhaps oak?) but I don’t really think that is necessary. Plus, it would be EXPENSIVE!

      If you think this frame will work for you, you should totally go for it! It’ll be so rewarding and the best night sleep ever! Best of luck!

  22. Hi Rick,
    Love this bed and shared it with my husband this week — hoping it’s something we can put together! One question for you, though: How would you transport it? If we build in the basement or garage and need to move it upstairs to the master, which parts would be most convenient to pre-build and which parts would be most convenient to finalize in the room? THEN, if we end up moving into a new home down the road, where on the frame would you suggest we take it apart to get it out of the house for easy reassembly?

    • Hi Helen! Glad to hear you guys love the design!

      The unfortunate truth about this frame is that it’s really not great to move around in any capacity. Because of the Kreg pocket screw construction (which hides the hardware from the outside), it cannot be taken apart! You could swap out the pocket screws with bolts, the only caveat being that they would be clearly visible and perhaps…UGLY (subjective)!

      This is our third home in five years and the frame has fit through some tricky hallways and stairwells with careful maneuvering. In both of my bed builds I install the slats up in the room, as they add a good deal of weight to the frame. You could also save the leg installation for in the room as well to keep the legs from hitting door molding or stair railings.

      I hope this helps you make an educated decision on what to build!

  23. This looks amazing and I can’t wait to build ours! Two questions for you if you don’t mind. What are the dimensions of your mattress? And last when I am putting on the supports and the 2×4 in the center of the frame where are they places on the 2×6? Or how much space from the top do I place them? Thank you

    • Hi Tamie! Thank you! I’ll have to get back to you with the dimension of my mattress. I can’t remember off the top of my head.

      As for the slat supports…The center 2×4 and side 2×3 supports are set down 1-1/4″. This leaves room for the slats to fit nicely and enough space for the mattress to slide in.

      Good luck with your build!

  24. Hey, Rick. Awesome bed, I can’t wait to build it. I have seen comments about adjusting the legs up or down by an inch or two. What is the gap between the floor and bottom of the bed as built? Trying to decide if I can adjust the leg length up enough to allow roomba clearance under the bed to gather the dust bunnies.

    • Hi Kristi-
      So sorry for the delay, I was away for most of the holidays.

      I would add at least an inch if you would like a Roomba to clear the frame. My buddy has a Roomba and it looked like they were about 2″ high? Just a GUESSTIMATE! I didn’t measure it, haha. I would build the frame, then see what you’re working with and cut the legs after. Good luck with your build!

  25. Hi Rick, I absolutely love the bed!! Both the platform and headboard are beautiful. Quick question though. Do you think it would alter the stability of the bed if I used higher legs? I like my beds to sit a few inches higher and am a total newbie to DIY projects so I’m sorry if this is a dumb question. I just found your blog today and am really enjoying your posts. Thanks!

    • Hi Jen! Thanks so much more stopping by and your question! I don’t think you would run into any problems if you added a few inches to the legs. What I WOULD do is rather than use 2×3’s as the side supports, switch those to 2×4’s. I did with with my queen bed build, and you would just mimic that, but with your king size cut size.

      What this will do is let the 4×4 legs sit flat on the 2×4 supports, without any overhang. Be sure to cut the two legs that go under the center support to your new leg length as well. I hope that was clear enough, but if not let me know! You can do this! Thanks again and good luck!

  26. Hello Rick,

    This looks so cool but one question I was wanting to make the frame Black to match the room do I need to stain the wood before painting it or can I just start painting it black?

    Thank you!

    • LJ- Don’t worry about staining it first! Just go on ahead and paint it black. You may need a few coats of black depending on how well it takes to the wood. Best of luck!

  27. Hi Rick! I’m so excited to make this! Quick question – I saw the queen bed measurements, but I was wondering if you had any plans/measurements for a california king? My husband is 6’6″, so we need a longer bed than a traditional king. No biggie if you don’t, but I figured we would ask before making our own adjustments to the original plan.

    Thanks!

    Jillian

    • Hi Jillian! Awesome to hear! I’m sorry I don’t have any measurements for a california king! But when you adjust the measurements, don’t forget to increase the length of the slat supports(left, right & middle) and the two outside pieces of trim to go with the longer 2×6’s. Best of luck! Pop back in if you have any questions along the way!

  28. Hi Rick, thanks for the plans. Due to acid reflux, we need to raise the head of our bed by at least 4-6 inches. Any ideas on how we could do that with your plan? Thanks so much………

    • Hi Mary- I myself had a very severe case of reflux when I was younger. Hope you get that sorted out!! I would raise the back legs (by the wall) a few inches as you said and cut them at an angle. I’m not sure on the exact angle, but you would then cut the front legs at the same angle. This way the bed is angled DOWN…does that make sense? That’s the only thing I can think of! Please use your discretion and make sure it’s safe and sturdy!

  29. Hi Rick. Nice platform bed idea. I just had a neighbor give us a 2 yr old king mattress with the 2 twin box springs. I don’t have a frame or headboard and would like to make one. I have pallet wood for the headboard, but will need to buy the wood for the platform. If I am using the box springs with the mattress, do you think I would still need to have 20 slats for support or could I possibly use less?

    • Hi Cindy! I think you could probably get away with less, but I wouldn’t take out TOO many. I think 10-15 slats would be just fine. If you notice that you need more support you can always just add a few more. Hope that helps!

  30. This is wonderful!! I am starting out in the realm of furniture building since DIY is better and will save me a ton of $$$. I plan on purchasing a table saw and this may be a silly question but would that tool suffice for the cuts needed to make this bed? Thank you and I look forward to recreating this gem!

    • Thanks! No need for a table saw on this project, just a miter saw! Check out the beginning of the post for a tools list for this project and the “Getting Started” section on the sidebar for a list of suggested tools. Best of luck!

  31. I’ve been looking at designs for a while, and this one is my favorite. One thing I’m wondering is why you suggest using the Kreg jig for pocket screwing (is that a term?) the support boards to the main frame. Wouldn’t screwing them straight in be just as effective? Is it a cosmetic choice? I’m hoping to get away without buying that jig (at least not yet). Regardless, this is a beautiful, simple, sturdy bed design you’re sharing with everyone. Thank you!

    • Hey James, I find that using the Kreg Jig gives me stronger joints than when I go without it. It sets the screws at the perfect depth into whatever your screwing (in this case the frame). This in combination with wood glue gives you a really strong joint. BUT! It’s certainly not the only way to go about it. You would need some pretty long screws to screw “straight in” through the supports. I imagine you’d also have to pre-drill to accommodate those big screws and help prevent cracking. Ultimately, it was less of a cosmetic choice and more of A) I have the jig! B) It gives me stronger joints C) Makes my life easier.

      I can understand your not wanting to invest all that money into a silly jig, but it really will make your project MUCH easier. Consider the Kreg R3 Jr Pocket Hole Jig, which is only $39, but will require a clamp to use. Thanks for the kind words, I’m glad you dig the design! If you have any other questions, don’t be afraid to stop back this way. Best of luck!

      • Rick – took you long enough, you cold-hearted bastard. Just kidding! I’m seriously stunned by how friendly, helpful, and quick you were to reply. It’s nice to come across someone who is happy and willing help a complete stranger. Good stuff.

        I went ahead and bought a Kreg KMS4 from Amazon last night. I found one that comes with the “SK03 675 Screws Pocket Hole Screw Joinery Kit”. It’s the same price as the one that’s Prime Eligible, and also comes with free shipping. This was after some research, but it still felt like an unexpected purchase. So, in addition to being helpful, etc., your reply was reassuring.

        I did two more questions. 1) How much construction did you do in the garage/shop vs. in the bedroom? I think it will be hard for me to get this thing up the stairs and into the bedroom if I build it all in the basement. But I don’t want to get a lot of saw dust in the house. 2) Since you glue when you screw, Bro, is it possible to take the bed apart? We’re not planning to move, but we might change flooring at some point.

        Thanks again my friend!

        • Hahah! That’s really nice of you to say, thanks man! Sounds like you got a pretty good deal! I think you’ll see the value in it once you get the project build rolling.

          Everything but the slats were put together in the garage. You can save the trim install for the room as well if you need another inch or two for maneuvering. It is NOT possible to take the bed apart. A major but necessary design flaw…pocket screws look great because they’re hidden. Bolts look TERRIBLE but can come apart. I went with the former.

          I can tell you this, though. This bed has been through three major relocations and I’ve been able to get it through hallways, stairwells and bedrooms of all shapes and sizes. Sometimes by myself! Yeah, I’m really strong.

          Anyway! Awesome you’re finally doing this James. It’s about time bro! Make sure you check out the updated build guide and let me know how it goes! I’ll do my best to answer any questions if you run into problems along the way.

  32. Hi Rick,
    The bed and headboard look great! Just wondering – what are the dimensions of the room in the first picture (blue walls)? Our master bedroom looks about the same and we were wondering if we could fit a king bed in there.

    • Hey thanks Arj!

      Unfortunately we moved out of that house a little over a year ago, so I don’t have the master bedroom’s dimensions anymore…and I just can’t seem to remember the sq. footage from when I installed the hardwood floor.

      I would take a look at the king platform bed frame plans here, take the front measurement of the bed and see if it will fit into your space. Hope that helps!

  33. Hi there! Beautiful project, and great instructions for a beginner DIY’er such as myself.

    This may be a dumb question, but I was wondering if it was possible to complete this project eliminating the legs entirely? I am wanting a low platform bed, but I wasn’t sure if the legs added some stability or if we could just have the whole thing on the floor.

    • Hey thanks Rianna! I wouldn’t eliminate the legs entirely as they give extra support to the 2×4’s that the slats rest on. If you want to put the frame directly on the floor you can, just cut the 4×4 legs to line up flush with the bottom of the 2×6 frame.

  34. My husband and I are going to tackle this bed for our new California King size bed this weekend. My question is I read earlier you suggest NOT to use plywood and to use the slats, BUT the lady at the mattress store said that our sleep number will not work with slats, is there something else you can suggest? Thank you and can’t wait to get started!!!

    • Hi Nicole!
      Well, I’m not a mattress expert or an expert of…anything really. So take all of this with a grain of salt and please use your discretion! But it stands to reason that a mattress sitting on one solid piece of wood will create a moisture problem without proper ventilation.

      Is it true that you have to build a “box spring” for the sleep number bed like this video shows? I’m not sure if this is for sleep number beds, but those are slats they’re using! With a breathable cover. If this is in fact for the sleep number, I don’t see why you can’t get their kit and fit the slats to your cali king frame and then throw on the cover some how. Or make your own slats and find a breathable cover.

      Alternatives…perforate holes through a solid piece of plywood with a speedbor bit? I have no idea if this will work. I’m talking enough holes for proper ventilation, but not enough to take away from the structural integrity of the plywood. I probably wouldn’t do it myself, but I can’t really think of another option.

      Sorry to be a rain cloud over your upcoming bed build, because it’s going FUN and REWARDING…but honestly I…just don’t know.

  35. Hello! I am hoping to make this a project. But We have a California King Sized bed. I was wondering if you had any suggestions on what sizes to cut the boards to. Our California King is 72″ x 84″

  36. Hi Rick. I love your platform bed. I am a 60 year old lady and going to try and tackle this one on my own please wish luck. I am not quite sure how I would measure this for a queen size bed. Could you help me with this. I would surely appreciate any help you could offer me. Wow. What a lucky wife to have such a handy man.

    Kind regards,
    Cheryl L. Anderson

  37. I love the look of this be, however i’d like it to stand off the ground higher. Do you think using 4x4x10 inch be ok?

  38. Love this platform bed and I am going to attempt to build it in a couple of weeks. I will try to modify your plans for a queen though. Just a quick question. Your interior dimensions are 75″x79″. Every google search that I do shows that king size mattresses are 76″x80″. Did you make the length and width 1″ shorter on purpose or are most mattresses like this? If that is the case, my interior dimensions for the queen size mattress would have to be 59″x79″ and not the advertized size of 60″x80″. Thanks for all of the great ideas. I am looking forward to your floating night table plans.

  39. Hi Rick I was wondering about the slats in this frame. My wife has an air number mattress and she’s worried that the air bags might get damaged with the gaps in the slat supports. Do you have an suggestions for an alternative option to slats? Thanks for an feedback

  40. Awesome easy build. If you are in hawaii the wood alone will cost you around 400.00. Random but almost threw up on myself. Just a thought since pine is a little on the weaker side for slats. I utilized a wider 1×5 for the center. Nothing crazy, just have kids and the occasional “happy time.” Great stuff thanks again.

  41. We’re looking to build a Cal King sized platform to place a full sized shikifuton mattress on with room to walk around on the platform. Then we want to use gas bed lifts so that we can easily access the 30″ of storage space under the proposed ‘loft-ish’ style bed.

    It seems like this platform bed would work well for this application, but wanted to see what you thought.

    And how much do you think the bed frame weighs?

    Thanks!

  42. Hey Rick, don’t know if you are still checking this, but I was wondering if you could make those 4×4’s longer to make the bed higher? We would love to have some space underneath to store our suitcases ect. Would you need any other reinforcements or anything?
    Great looking frame, I love the simplicity of it. I need to talk with my wife but I may even leave off the trim if she wants a bed skirt.
    Thanks for the plans!

  43. Rick, loved reading about this project. It’s inspiring me to build our next King bed instead of buying. However, my wife wants a tall bed – could I use your dimensions and extend the legs without compromising strength and stability? Any advice would be helpful as I am new to the wood working scene.

    • Hi Alex! Thanks for stopping by! Yes, you can make the legs higher. Just be sure to increase the center support legs as well so that the weight is evenly distributed. I would cut to your 4×4’s to the desired height, rough fit them under the frame and see what you think before attaching them. That way if you feel like they’re too high you can cut them down incrementally to arrive at an aesthetically pleasing and safe load-bearing height. Hope that helps!

  44. Hey Rick!

    My girlfriend and I were searching for platform beds for our new mattress. That is, until we stumbled upon this! We decided within a day that we wanted to make this and went out and bought all the lumber. I made a few modifications that will include pseudo-drawers (they will be on casters instead of rails) and the platform will be taller, but I kept most of your plans intact. Due to budget concerns, I did not opt to use the Kreg, I am just going to live with possibly seeing some screw heads and use a few braces. Thanks for the great plans!!

    • Hey Charlie glad to hear man! When you finish shoot me an image on my facebook page I would love to see it! The drawers sound like a great addition to the plans, I’ve been sketching up ideas for a storage bed frame myself. Best of luck to you and your girlfriend with the upcoming build!

  45. Hi rick I love your bed and my husband and I are looking to build it this weekend! I was wondering if you can help us modify it a bit. We move quiet a bit for work and need to be able to take it apart and put it back together easily…are you able to help? I was thinking some sort of interlock method but would appreciate any feed back from your experience.

    • Hi Sehar! Hex bolts and nuts. I’m not the biggest fan of this since the hardware would show, but for the ease of breaking it down, moving and reassembling it may be your best bet. If you are experienced you could use mortise and thru tenons on all sides. That would certainly give you a strong joint that could be taken down! Hope that helps a bit!

  46. I absolutely love this bed. It is really great that you have done this for for every one. We are planing on starting (hopefully finishing) it this weekend. Just a quick question though do you have the instructions for the headboard? or am I completely missing it. Thank you!

  47. Ok stupid question, not sure if anyone has asked, but could you still use box springs with the platform bed? Also this bed looks great!

  48. I love this bed!!!! I was wondering if you think the legs could be cut longer to make the bed higher, and if so, how much? Some of us (me) are old(er), and arthritic. If I tried to sleep on a bed that low, it would probably take a crane to help me up.

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