Ever since I was a young man-child I’ve wanted a sliding barn door. But because we relocated across the country for so many years, it just wasn’t worth the ASTRONOMICAL price to get a kit (when they first came to market they were about $300 and UP). Well now that we’ve settled down and prices have come down, enough is enough! Today I’m going to build and install a sliding barn door!
2 – 1×6 @ 70-1/16″ (left, right)
2 – 1×8 ripped to 1×7.25″@ 38″ (top, bottom)
2 – 1×6 @ 38-1/2″ at 57.5 degrees (diagonal supports)
8 – 1×6 T&G – Cut off excess material AFTER being attached to door frame with circular saw
1 – 1×8 @ 80″
1 – 1x8x8 Pine
5 – 1x6x8 Pine
8 – 1x6x8 Tongue & Groove Pine
8ft Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit
1-1/4″ Pocket Screws
1-1/4″ Brad Nails
9″ Barn Door Handle
Minwax Special Walnut stain
Minwax Satin Polycrylic
Kreg Jig & Accessories
Elmers Wood Filler
Power Sander or Sanding Block
Foam Brush/Paint Brush
Build and Install a Sliding Barn Door
The first step before you build and install a sliding barn door is to measure your door OPENING size and decided which hardware kit you’re going to need.
My barn door will be using the 79″ or 6-foot 7-inch kit from Industrial by Design that accommodates a maximum door opening size of 38″ or smaller.
If your door opening size is 47″ or smaller, go with the 96″ or 8-foot kit. If this is the correct barn door size for you, be sure to ADJUST YOUR CUT SIZES as your door will need to be bigger. If there’s enough demand I’ll write-up a door plan for a 47″ opening, let me know in the comments below!
Here is all of the material required to build your own sliding barn door and header.
Set your Kreg Jig to accomadate 3/4″ material. Clamp and pre-drill the center and two side pieces of the 1×6 door frame.
Three holes on each side.
Apply wood glue and push the pieces about to be joined together while lining up the outside edge.
Secure the two pieces using 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws.
Make your way to the other side and repeat the steps from above. If the frame tries to pull in and out of square, use pressure clamps to keep the boards from pushing in.
Measure out the center from the inside of the frame. This is where we’re going to be placing the center 1×6.
Line-up the center on your center marks 1×6 and double check for square with your tape measure.
Secure the center 1×6 to the main door frame.
Cut the two diagonal pieces at 57.5 degrees and 38-1/2″. Because my miter saw only cuts up to 45-degrees, I made the first cut by hand. Next I transferred that angle to the second diagonal piece, took it to my miter saw and lined up the blade with my mark by pulling the board’s edge off the fence.
Pre-drill (3) pocket holes on each side of the diagonal pieces.
Before screwing place scrap wood under the front of the frame to keep the front flush. Then secure the pieces together with 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws.
Rip the front and back 1×6 tongue and groove boards to 4-1/2″.
Liberally apply glue all across the bottom face of the tongue and groove board.
Face nail this board to the back of the frame. This will be our “anchor” piece so we can install the rest of the tongue and groove 1×6’s.
Grab a rubber mallet and scrap piece of wood. Hammer the tongue into the groove for a tight fit.
Secure the 1-1/4″ brad nails into the back of the main frame by either face nailing them or going through the tongue. If you face nail, be sure to fill in any brad holes with wood filler. If you have a floor-nailer, now’s a great time to whip that bad boy out to conceal the hardware!
Make your all the way to the end of the piece and face nail.
It’s…beautiful! But HUGE!
Trim the excess tongue and groove boards off using a circular saw. Do this for the top and bottom and sides as needed.
I use a 1×4 as a guide otherwise my cuts will look like a jackson pollock painting. TERRIBLE!
Not very jackson pollocky!
I’ll be using Minwax Special Walnut stain. It’s got a great tone that matches my hardwood floors!
After coating the front and back of the door with stain, I apply (3) coats of Minwax Satin Polycrylic.
Now for the FUN! Here’s everything you need to install one of the (2) casters provided in the 79″ sliding barn door hardware kit.
Set the top of the caster 1-3/4″ away from the top of the barn door.
Use your speed square to keep the caster square to the door and pre-drill through the two holes.
Use a ratchet kit and wrench to secure the nut and bolts. These nuts are supposed to be on the FRONT of the barn door, but I liked how the bolts looked better.
Next up are the plastic bumpers that will keep the door from being bumped off of the track.
Pre-drill and attach these to the top of the door. I centered mine.
Line-up the barn door with the attached casters and pre-drill through the holes on barn door handle…
And attach with the screws provided.
This is my opening. My 1×6 header is going to be 1″ off of the top of the door opening.
Locate the studes and transfer those marks onto your header. If your studs fall 16″ on center, you DO NOT need to use a header. But you can, if you want. It’s your life!
Pre-drill through the stud marks and attach the first side of the header using at least 3″ bolts.
Move to the center of the header and check for level.
Pre-drill through the pre-marked hole and into the far stud.
Attach to the stud. The rest of the bolts should be easy to pre-drill and install now that both sides are secure and level.
Here is the wall hardware for the 79″ sliding barn door kit. It includes (5) spacers, (5) bolts and (5) washers.
The rail needs to be the height of the door PLUS 1-11/16″. This puts the holes of the rail 3-1/8″ center-line from the bottom of the header.
Pre-drill through the barn door header.
And secure using on of the provided bolts.
Move your ladder to the other end of the header, place a spacer behind the rail and check for level. Pre-drill.
Secure the other side of the rail using the provided bolt. Make your way along the rest of the rail to secure the rest of the bolts. You should not have to check for level after this step.
The sliding barn door rail is STRONG and SECURE. I literally did one(hundred and one) pull-ups.
Now the is moment of TRUTH!!! Lift up the barn door and slide the first caster on…
And the second….it’s PERFECT!
The second to last step is to secure the stoppers. These little rubber pads will keep the door from going past where you want it!
Loosen up the top screws a bit with the provided allen key.
And follow me here…
Slide the stopper onto the bar and move it into position. Secure using the allen key.
And last but not least attach the door guide. This is supposed to be secured in the center of the bottom of the door. This way it keeps the door off of the wall and from pulling out too far and falling off the rail.
But because I don’t have a fence for my router I opted to install this in the front for the time being. If you have the proper tools you’ll want to route a channel into the bottom of the center of the door.
And THAT is how you build and install a sliding barn door. This was one of the most exciting builds ever. Well, for me anyway. You may have hated it.
The hardware really does add a touch of class to the rustic barn door.
If you have any questions on the build or install feel free to ask below!
As always thanks for reading and be sure to check out Industrial by Design if you’re in the market for affordable hairpin legs, steel legs or sliding barn door hardware with a lifetime warranty. They were gracious enough to send me this sliding barn door kit and it made my door WAY more awesome than I ever imagined.