It’s been almost three years exactly since I originally built my DIY platform bed, and it’s become VERY popular. Almost as popular as you! No, you’re right. It’s not that popular. Anyway, I figured I would update the build with what I’ve learned over the years while also providing images based on my own SketchUp plans. I hope the extra material clears up some of the FAQ and helps to streamline your build. Please feel free to comment and I’ll do my best to help you with any questions you have throughout your build!
You can go here for the original post from 2012. But be sure to come back here because these updated DIY platform bed plans are better.
4- 2 x 6 x 8′ Pine Studs (main frame)
3- 2 x 4 x 8′ Pine Stud (left, center & right supports)
20- 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (slats)
3- 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (top trim)
1- 1 x 2 x 8′ Pine Board (back trim optional since it’s not visible)
1- 4 x 4 x 8′ Douglas Fir (legs)
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut)
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane
*Be sure not to get the outdoor treated wood. The chemically treated stuff has a green hue to it.
Main frame – Cut your front and back 2×6’s to 78″ and your sides to 79″
Supports: Left, right and center – Cut the center and side 2×4’s to 79″
Slats – The slats are cut to 75″. There are 20 slats total.
Top trim – Cut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 75″. Cut the side 1×3’s to 83″
Legs – Cut (6) 4×4 legs to 4″
All of this will be detailed and pictured below…so read on bed builder!
• Keep in mind this is for a king size mattress.
• Not every king size mattress is the same! Double check your dimensions to make sure they’ll work with this build! I have a Serta memory foam mattress.
• I included a FAQ section at the bottom of the post. Please read through this and any of the comments before asking a question!
The main frame is made with (4) 2×6’s. Inside is (1) center and (2) side support 2×4’s. These 2×4 supports hold the (20) slats, which will replace your box spring. For the legs I picked a 4×4, which I’ll be cutting down into (6) legs. It’s likely the strongest bed you’ll ever encounter. Like one of those dude’s who’s been weightlifting since he was twelve.
We’ve had ZERO problems over the past three years with it. Keep in mind this is the third house we’ve been in with the bed so it’s been moved and maneuvered over and over and over again.
Cut your front and back 2×6’s to 78″ and your sides to 79″.
Cut the (3) support 2×4’s to 79″.
Set your Kreg Jig to the proper drill guide material thickness and depth collar thickness. Familiarize yourself with the Kreg quick start guide because we’ll be using it all day. The proper setting for 2×6’s and 2×4’s is 1-1/2″. Glue and screw your frame together using 2-1/2″ pocket screws.
After joining the frame we’re going to attach the 2×4 supports. These supports are set down 1-1/4″ from the top of the frame. Mark out 1-1/4″ down so that we can use that as a guide in the next few steps.
Once your Kreg Jig is set, drill holes 2″ from each end of the 2×4. From there drill a hole every 7″. You may have +/- 7″ between the last hole and the far end. It doesn’t really matter, we just want enough screws to support the weight of the slats and mattress…and you…and a friend. Perhaps even a dog.
Flip your frame over and set your 2×4 in line with your 1-1/4″ mark. Glue the inside end of the 2×4 (that will be pressed up against the frame)…
Clamp the 2×4 to the frame and get to screwing!
Measure the halfway point between the two side frames and attach your center 2×4″ support. (2) screws on top, flip it over and (1) screw underneath in the center.
Now is a great time to get those legs cut, don’t you think? Cut (6) 4″ legs from your 4×4 stock.
Attach the two center support legs 16-1/4″ off of the frame to the center-line of the legs. Notice the pre-drilled hole for the third screw to attach the center 2×4 to the frame (far left of the image). We literally JUST talked about this! Get your head in the game!
Pre-drill and use 2-1/2″ wood screws to secure the center legs. You glued right? Always glue when you screw! C’mon BRO!
I can’t believe our frame has legs! We make such a great team you and I. We could build anything if I set my mind to making more plans! You and me forever? Yeah!
Cut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 75″. Cut the side 1×3’s to 83″. Attach the trim with 1″ brad nails or use a finish nail gun. If doing it manually, pre-drill pilot holes for the nails with a small bit before nailing and they’ll go in like 100% organic grass-fed butter!
Get out your super loveable Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut) and get to staining! See the FAQ below for how I stained my bed.
Don’t bother staining the slats or the slat supports.
Don’t forget to stain the legs!
Cut your (20) slats to 75″. Space them out 1-1/2″ and attach with brad nails or a finish nail gun.
Here’s a side-view.
Here’s a 3/4 view from the back.
Please read both the FAQ and comments below for answers to any of the questions you have regarding this build. If you don’t see your question answered, comment and I’ll do my best to clear things up! I really want to help you make a kick ass platform bed. Also, please SHARE this post! We’re pretty much sisters now, we built a freakin bed together! Keep an eye out for more plans soon!
Frequently Asked Questions:
What stain did you use? I LOVE IT!
This stain is super loveable, I agree. The stain is Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut).
How did you achieve that look with the stain?
For the stain I used the water/stain method used in the pallet headboard build. Here’s a breakdown of the process: I filled up an old Tupperware container about half way with water and physically brushed the water onto the wood. Since wood is porous, it will absorb the water first, then the stain second. By putting more water on (i.e. completely saturating the wood), the less stain will be able to be absorbed.
Then I immediately stained (with a separate brush). This is messy, so make sure you work on an old tarp or something.
To achieve different tones: Darkest: Stain with a brush, immediately wipe off excess stain with rag. Medium: Brush some water, then brush stain and wipe accordingly. Lightest: Saturate with water, brush on stain and wipe.
Did you use a clearcoat or wax…or something?
YEP! I applied (3) coats of Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane.
Umm…this is my first project. I don’t know how to apply polycrylic…
Here’s my process: After allowing ample time for the stain to dry, wipe off and/or shop-vac your wood to make sure there’s no dust. Grab a paintbrush or one of those cheap foam brushes and apply a generous first coat with the grain. Let that coat dry (1-2 hrs depending on temp/humidity) and then lightly sand with a fine grit sandpaper (200 or 220 should do the trick). If the clear-coat is still sticky, you need more drying time! Then apply your 2nd coat, let dry, sand. Repeat one more time for a really consistent clear-coat, except do not sand after the 3rd coat. You’re done! Here’s the stuff I’d recommend. Over the years I’ve come to prefer polycrylic OVER any of the other polyurethanes. It’s just so much easier to clean up and the smell dissipates MUCH faster, which is great when you’ve got little kids like I do.
Does the frame squeak?
Oh, you sly dog. Nope! 2×6’s are solid!
Can I make the legs longer than 4″?
Absolutely! Just use your discretion on what is safe and works for you.
Will a Roomba fit under this bed?
LOL! I believe so, but because I don’t own a Roomba I would suggest adding an inch or so to the legs to be safe. If you’ve got a Roomba and built the bed, let me know if it works with the 4″ legs!
What are your thoughts on instead of wooden slats, screwing down solid plywood or some other kind of solid board?
From my understanding a solid board as opposed to slats would be a bad idea due to the lack of airflow to the mattress. While you sleep your body heats up and could create moisture at the bottom of your mattress that would be unable to escape. Think about a box spring, they have that black mesh material that is breathable. Slats allow for the moisture to escape while providing ample support for the mattress.
Can I still use a box spring?
You can absolutely use a box spring! If you check out the queen size frame guide, the frame sides are much higher than the king platform frame. So your box spring could slip right in where the mattress would be. But yes, you can certainly use a box spring with this plan.
Is there a weight limit associated to this bed?
To be honest, I have no idea what the weight limit is on this bed frame. What I can say is that it’s the sturdiest bed I’ve ever been on. The 2×6 frame is incredibly strong. (they build houses out of this stuff, after all!) The 4×4 legs, 2×4 supports and being so low to the ground help, too.
How would you transport it? If we build in the basement or garage and need to move it upstairs to the master, which parts would be most convenient to pre-build and which parts would be most convenient to finalize in the room? THEN, if we end up moving into a new home down the road, where on the frame would you suggest we take it apart to get it out of the house for easy reassembly?
The unfortunate truth about this frame is that it’s really not great to move around in any capacity. Because of the Kreg pocket screw construction (which hides the hardware from the outside), it cannot be taken apart! You could swap out the pocket screws with bolts, the only caveat being that they would be clearly visible and perhaps…UGLY (subjective)!
This is our third home in five years and the frame has fit through some tricky hallways and stairwells with careful maneuvering. In both of my bed builds I install the slats up in the room, as they add a good deal of weight to the frame. You could also save the leg installation for in the room as well to keep the legs from hitting door molding or stair railings.