It’s been almost three years exactly since I originally built my DIY platform bed, and it’s become VERY popular. Almost as popular as you! No, you’re right. It’s not that popular. Anyway, I figured I would update the build with what I’ve learned over the years while also providing images based on my own SketchUp plans. I hope the extra material clears up some of the FAQ and helps to streamline your build. Please feel free to comment and I’ll do my best to help you with any questions you have throughout your build!

You can go here for the original post from 2012. But be sure to come back here because these updated DIY platform bed plans are better.


Difficulty:
Beginner


Time Required:
Weekend


Cost:
Under $100

KingQueenFullTwinTools RequiredSafetyRelated Posts

King Size Mattress (76″ x 80″)
Purchase List:

Lumber:
4 – 2 x 6 x 8′ Pine Studs (main frame)
3 – 2 x 4 x 8′ Pine Stud (left, center & right supports)
20 – 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (slats)
3 – 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (top trim)
1 – 1 x 2 x 8′ Pine Board (back trim optional since it’s not visible)
1 – 4 x 4 x 8′ Douglas Fir (legs)

*Do not purchase treated lumber! The chemically treated stuff is intended for outdoor use and has a green hue to it.
Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut)
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @ 78″ (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @ 79″ (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @ 79″ (outside)
1 – 2×4 @ 79″ (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @ 83″ (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @ 75″ (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @ 75″
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Queen Size Mattress (60″ x 80″) Coming Soon
Purchase List:

Lumber:
 – 2x6x8′ Framing Lumber (frame)
– 2x3x8′ Framing Lumber (slat supports, center support legs)
– 1x4x8′ Pine (slats)
– 4x4x8′ Doug Fir or Pine (legs) 

Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Wood Stain
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @  (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @  (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @  (outside)
1 – 2×4 @  (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @  (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @  (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Full Size Mattress (54″ x 74″) Coming Soon
Purchase List:

Lumber:
 – 1x6x8′ Pine (frame)
– 2x3x8′ Framing Lumber (slat supports)
– 1x4x8′ Pine (slats)
– 2x2x4′  (legs)

Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Wood Stain
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @  (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @  (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @  (outside)
1 – 2×4 @  (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @  (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @  (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Twin Size Mattress (39″ x 74″) Coming Soon
Purchase List:

Lumber:
 – 1x6x8′ Pine (frame)
– 2x3x8′ Framing Lumber (slat supports)
– 1x4x8′ Pine (slats)
– 2x2x4  (legs)

Hardware:
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Finish:
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Wood Stain
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane

Cut List:

Main Frame:
2 – 2×6 @  (front, back)
2 – 2×6 @  (left, right)
Slat Supports:
2 – 2×4 @  (outside)
1 – 2×4 @  (center)
Top trim:
3 – 1×3 @  (front, left, right)
1 – 1×2 @  (back)
Slats:
20 – 1×3 @
Legs:
6 – 4×4 @ 4″

Clamps
Kreg Right Angle Clamp
Kreg Jig & Accessories
Miter Saw or Circular Saw
Power Drill & Drill Bits
Wood Glue
Elmers Wood Filler
Power Sander or Sanding Block
Sanding Paper
Speed Square
Foam Brush/Paint Brush

*Not sure of the best tools for the job? Check out my article on beginners tools: Tools for New DIYers

• Keep in mind this is for a king size mattress.
• Not every king size mattress is the same! Double check your dimensions to make sure they’ll work with this build! I have a Serta memory foam mattress.
• I included a FAQ section at the bottom of the post. Please read through this and any of the comments before asking a question!

king.bed11
The main frame is made with (4) 2×6’s. Inside is (1) center and (2) side support 2×4’s. These 2×4 supports hold the (20) slats, which will replace your box spring. For the legs I picked a 4×4, which I’ll be cutting down into (6) legs. It’s likely the strongest bed you’ll ever encounter. Like one of those dude’s who’s been weightlifting since he was twelve.

We’ve had ZERO problems over the past three years with it. Keep in mind this is the third house we’ve been in with the bed so it’s been moved and maneuvered over and over and over again.

 

king.bed1
Cut your front and back 2×6’s to 78″ and your sides to 79″.

king.bed2
Cut the (3) support 2×4’s to 79″.

king.bed9.5
Set your Kreg Jig to the proper drill guide material thickness and depth collar thickness. Familiarize yourself with the Kreg quick start guide because we’ll be using it all day. The proper setting for 2×6’s and 2×4’s is 1-1/2″. Glue and screw your frame together using 2-1/2″ pocket screws.

king.bed9
After joining the frame we’re going to attach the 2×4 supports. These supports are set down 1-1/4″ from the top of the frame. Mark out 1-1/4″ down so that we can use that as a guide in the next few steps.

king.bed7
Once your Kreg Jig is set, drill holes 2″ from each end of the 2×4. From there drill a hole every 7″. You may have +/- 7″ between the last hole and the far end. It doesn’t really matter, we just want enough screws to support the weight of the slats and mattress…and you…and a friend. Perhaps even a dog.

king.bed4
Flip your frame over and set your 2×4 in line with your 1-1/4″ mark. Glue the inside end of the 2×4 (that will be pressed up against the frame)…

king.bed7.5
Clamp the 2×4 to the frame and get to screwing!

king.bed8
Measure the halfway point between the two side frames and attach your center 2×4″ support. (2) screws on top, flip it over and (1) screw underneath in the center.

king.bed5
Now is a great time to get those legs cut, don’t you think? Cut (6) 4″ legs from your 4×4 stock.

king.bed6
Attach the two center support legs 16-1/4″ off of the frame to the center-line of the legs. Notice the pre-drilled hole for the third screw to attach the center 2×4 to the frame (far left of the image). We literally JUST talked about this! Get your head in the game!

king.bed8.5
Pre-drill and use 2-1/2″ wood screws to secure the center legs. You glued right? Always glue when you screw! C’mon BRO!

king.bed10
I can’t believe our frame has legs! We make such a great team you and I. We could build anything if I set my mind to making more plans! You and me forever? Yeah!

Cut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 75″. Cut the side 1×3’s to 83″. Attach the trim with 1″ brad nails or use a finish nail gun. If doing it manually, pre-drill pilot holes for the nails with a small bit before nailing and they’ll go in like 100% organic grass-fed butter!

king.bed12
Get out your super loveable Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut) and get to staining! See the FAQ below for how I stained my bed.

king.bed13
Don’t bother staining the slats or the slat supports.

king.bed14
Don’t forget to stain the legs!

king.bed17
Cut your (20) slats to 75″. Space them out 1-1/2″ and attach with brad nails or a finish nail gun.

king.bed15
Here’s a side-view.

king.bed16
Here’s a 3/4 view from the back.

IMG_0552
Please read both the FAQ and comments below for answers to any of the questions you have regarding this build. If you don’t see your question answered, comment and I’ll do my best to clear things up! I really want to help you make a kick ass platform bed. Also, please SHARE this post! We’re pretty much sisters now, we built a freakin bed together! Keep an eye out for more plans soon!

xoxo rick

Frequently Asked Questions:

What stain did you use? I LOVE IT!
This stain is super loveable, I agree. The stain is Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut).

How did you achieve that look with the stain?

For the stain I used the water/stain method used in the pallet headboard build. Here’s a breakdown of the process: I filled up an old Tupperware container about half way with water and physically brushed the water onto the wood. Since wood is porous, it will absorb the water first, then the stain second. By putting more water on (i.e. completely saturating the wood), the less stain will be able to be absorbed.

Then I immediately stained (with a separate brush). This is messy, so make sure you work on an old tarp or something.

To achieve different tones: Darkest: Stain with a brush, immediately wipe off excess stain with rag. Medium: Brush some water, then brush stain and wipe accordingly. Lightest: Saturate with water, brush on stain and wipe.

Did you use a clearcoat or wax…or something?
YEP! I applied (3) coats of Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane.

Umm…this is my first project. I don’t know how to apply polycrylic…
Here’s my process: After allowing ample time for the stain to dry, wipe off and/or shop-vac your wood to make sure there’s no dust. Grab a paintbrush or one of those cheap foam brushes and apply a generous first coat with the grain. Let that coat dry (1-2 hrs depending on temp/humidity) and then lightly sand with a fine grit sandpaper (200 or 220 should do the trick). If the clear-coat is still sticky, you need more drying time! Then apply your 2nd coat, let dry, sand. Repeat one more time for a really consistent clear-coat, except do not sand after the 3rd coat. You’re done! Here’s the stuff I’d recommend. Over the years I’ve come to prefer polycrylic OVER any of the other polyurethanes. It’s just so much easier to clean up and the smell dissipates MUCH faster, which is great when you’ve got little kids like I do.

Does the frame squeak?
Oh, you sly dog. Nope! 2×6’s are solid!

Can I make the legs longer than 4″?
Absolutely! Just use your discretion on what is safe and works for you.

Will a Roomba fit under this bed?
LOL! I believe so, but because I don’t own a Roomba I would suggest adding an inch or so to the legs to be safe. If you’ve got a Roomba and built the bed, let me know if it works with the 4″ legs!

What are your thoughts on instead of wooden slats, screwing down solid plywood or some other kind of solid board?
From my understanding a solid board as opposed to slats would be a bad idea due to the lack of airflow to the mattress. While you sleep your body heats up and could create moisture at the bottom of your mattress that would be unable to escape. Think about a box spring, they have that black mesh material that is breathable. Slats allow for the moisture to escape while providing ample support for the mattress.

Can I still use a box spring?
You can absolutely use a box spring! If you check out the queen size frame guide, the frame sides are much higher than the king platform frame. So your box spring could slip right in where the mattress would be. But yes, you can certainly use a box spring with this plan.

Is there a weight limit associated to this bed?
To be honest, I have no idea what the weight limit is on this bed frame. What I can say is that it’s the sturdiest bed I’ve ever been on. The 2×6 frame is incredibly strong. (they build houses out of this stuff, after all!) The 4×4 legs, 2×4 supports and being so low to the ground help, too.

How would you transport it? If we build in the basement or garage and need to move it upstairs to the master, which parts would be most convenient to pre-build and which parts would be most convenient to finalize in the room? THEN, if we end up moving into a new home down the road, where on the frame would you suggest we take it apart to get it out of the house for easy reassembly?
The unfortunate truth about this frame is that it’s really not great to move around in any capacity. Because of the Kreg pocket screw construction (which hides the hardware from the outside), it cannot be taken apart! You could swap out the pocket screws with bolts, the only caveat being that they would be clearly visible and perhaps…UGLY (subjective)!

This is our third home in five years and the frame has fit through some tricky hallways and stairwells with careful maneuvering. In both of my bed builds I install the slats up in the room, as they add a good deal of weight to the frame. You could also save the leg installation for in the room as well to keep the legs from hitting door molding or stair railings.

138 COMMENTS

  1. It’d be nice to list the screws in your materials list. Also, in the FAQ about leg height it looks like autocorrect struck again: desecration should be discretion. Unless you were going somewhere entirely different with it…. 😉

      • Hi Rick,

        Where did you get the wood from? This is my first time doing anything like this and I went to home depot and when they showed me the wood for the slats, it was called whitewood and they didn’t seem to have pine except the select and that’s a lot of money… The whitewood also seemed like it was weak and might not be able to hold my wife and I and two pets that love to cuddle with us. Also our toddler that loves to jump haha.

        Also, my bed is 76X80 so this should be a perfect fit, correct?

        • Hey Alex-
          While at HD or Lowes, you want to look for 1×3 Furring Strip Boards. Often times they’ll be in a bundle. These are the cheapest 1×3’s you’re likely to find. They’re very rough though, so you’d have to spend a lot of time sanding them down (just as I did)…but you’ll save a lot of money!

          The next step up in quality would be “common” whitewood 1x3s. The whitewood sold in big box stores can be a handful of species of wood…generally spruce, pine or fir. This is what I use for a good number of my projects. It’s a bit more expensive than the firring strips, but you’ll need to put in less work. You noted that they look flimsy and you’re right! But that’s why we’re using (20) of them and they’re sitting on top of 2×4 supports. The weight will be distributed evenly between slats.

          In short, I would take another look for firring strips. You’ll save a ton of $$$! If you can’t find those, grab some common whitewood 1×3’s.

          Our bed is toddler-jumped tested and approved, so you should be good on that front!

          Hope this helps and keep me posted on the build!

          • Hi Rick, thanks for the quick reply!

            I found a reuse warehouse nearby that could give me everything in pine for half the price of Home Depot/Lowe’s so I might wait until then. They deconstruct houses to reuse everything, I hope the lumber is still in good shape! The only thing is that they close at 5 and on Sundays so I would have to wait one more week to get started! I’m pretty impatient so I’m not sure what to do now haha

            Lowes has some spruce-pine-furr strips and HD has regular fir strips with no mention of the type of wood. I can’t seem to find the douglas fir, the only 4×4 I can get is pressure treated pine from HD, would that still work or is that the chemically treated stuff you said to avoid?

            Lastly (for now), do you think I could use the Kreg Jr and still get everything done? I saw the that K4 has three holes so I don’t know if that would affect anything. Any other tips that you might not have mentioned??

            Thanks!!

            • Alex-

              That’s awesome! I wish I had something like that out here where I live. It doesn’t really matter what kind of wood the 4×4 is, as long as it’s not the green pressure treated stuff. The 4×4’s available to me just happened to be douglas fir. I’m very surprised that neither HD or Lowes carry them! If worse comes to worse you can always join two 2×4’s together by gluing, clamping them and then cutting them down to size. The down side of this is that you’ll see the seam (and have to do extra work).

              The Kreg Jr will absolutely work, but it will be more time consuming. You’ll have to use a separate clamp with it, whereas the k4 system has the clamp on the unit. The three holes on the K4MS are designated for different material thicknesses. I would say if you plan on building other furniture to grab the K4MS as it will save you time. If you’re unsure about your DIY future or on a tight budget, go with the Kreg K3 Jr.

              And my *best* advice is to check out the Kreg quick start guide and make sure you understand the unit (be it the Kreg Jr or K4MS). Also don’t be afraid to screw up. All of my projects have beautiful mistakes built-in, you just can’t see them because I get to pick which pictures I show you!

              If you run into problems along the way I’m always happy to help the best to my (limited) abilities!

              • Hi Rick

                Here is a link to a screenshot of my HD cart: Do you think my wood choices are okay?

                http://imgur.com/XWyVCWd

                Also, just to further explore other options… We definitely like the idea of the bed being able to be taken apart, would we be able to use regular screws or bolts or brackets to do this? If so, what screws/brackets/bolts would you recommend? My dad is super handy and could probably do this himself, but I want to take the lead here and impress him (and my wife) with my skills hahaha

                • This looks pretty good Al, all except for the “4×4 pressure treated pine”. That’s the stuff you want to stay away from and strictly for outdoor use.

                  You can certainly use bolts and/or brackets. I stay away from them because I think they’re UGLY, but I understand the need to break down a bed frame and move it. If I were to use bolts I would probably try to countersink and cap it off to hide the bolt. I wish I could give you more specifics on bolt size, cap size, countersink depth, etc…but just don’t have any experience using this stuff.

                  I would put together your plan and present it to your dad with the above material list and throw in various terms/nonsense (bolts vs pocket screws, countersinking, dynamic slat system for optimum toddler jumpability or DSSOTJA, etc.) and ask what he thinks. I bet that would impress him! Hahah!

                  • Rick,

                    We finally finished the bed!

                    We ended up just using the Kreg mini, it probably took a lot longer than it would have but it worked great, what a neat tool!

                    Unfortunately, we built it in the basement and when we tried to get it upstairs, we didn’t have enough clearance because of the HVAC pipe stuff. I should have checked beforehand..

                    So we had to take it apart, take it upstairs, and rebuild it in the bedroom. By then, we already knew what we were doing so it didn’t take too long.

                    Too tired to stain, maybe I’ll do that in a few weeks but for right now I’m just going to try and attach a bedskirt to it. Thanks for the help and the plans! Look forward to your upcoming projects.

                    • Alex! Great to hear! I’m really glad the mini worked out for you! So basically you got to built the bed twice! That means we have the same amount of bed building experience! HAHA! Get that bad boy stained and clear coated ya bum! You won’t regret it! Really happy things turned out well, enjoy the bed! Here’s the real question…what are you building next?!

  2. We are in the process of making this bed right now. The instructions are flawless and we have been looking for a long time for the right type of platform bed. This bed is built well and the $$$ savings making our own bed is tremendous! Thanks!

    • Hi Karen! AWESOME to hear! I guess by now you’re probably about finished with the build, so enjoy! I’ve been enjoying mine for 3+ years!!

  3. I have been looking for DIY bed frame plans for a while, and this is the best set I’ve seen so far. I have a question about modifying the design. I want to build an upholstered frame around the outside of the bed, and want to modify the design to be able to be broken down and moved. Simply upholstering the frame in situ wouldn’t work, because it wouldn’t be able to be broken down at a later time and moved.

    What do you think about eliminating the inside 2×4 side rails, bringing in the dimensions of the frame on all sides by 1.5 inches and then having the slats actually sit ON TOP of the frame, instead of draped inside the box.

    Then, upholstering 3 separate outside side rails (left, right, and foot of bed) and attaching them to the sides of the frame using T-nuts and knockdown hardware. If the structural frame is composed of 2×6’s (or even 2×4’s since it will be hidden), then the outside upholstered side rails could be made out of boards that are 2 inches wider (2×8 or 2×6). They could then be mounted to the frame in such a way that they come up over the outside of the mattress by 2 inches to be more aesthetically pleasing.

    This way, the bed can be taken apart and moved if necessary, without any of the outside-facing aesthetic components needing to be damaged or disassembled in the process. You would simply unscrew the upholstered side rails, unscrew the slats, and then unscrew the frame. Wouldn’t be the easiest thing in the world, but would allow you to move it if need be.

    Does this sound viable? Any thoughts or ideas?

    • Hey Tommy- Upholstered king size bed frame eh? I dig it. I think you’re on the right track.

      Here’s what I think I would do, barring any issues after the build starts…

      Bring in the frame by 1-1/2″ on all sides and use your T-nuts and knockdown hardware. I would probably use 2×4’s for the frame. Not sure how necessary the 2×6’s are at this point. I would probably use 1×6 pine stock for the outside frame that you plan on upholstering. Use a nail gun and glue to attach these to the 2×4 frame. Once they’re set, upholster the 1×6 and then attach with your hardware. Slide your slats on top your your 2×4 frame and you still an 1″+ on the 1×6 that will keep the slats hidden so you can slide your mattress in. Check out the queen size bed build I completed earlier this year. Kind of like that, but with a frame you can breakdown and upholstered 1×6’s instead of painted.

      Sounds totally viable and I’d love to see your work! Keep me posted!

      • Wanted to let you know that I did end up getting around to making a king size version of the upholstered bed! Your notes definitely came in handy.

        I ended up ditching the knock-down hardware and just screwing the upholstered side rails into the frame from the back of the panels. I can take this apart when and if we ever need to move it. We didn’t use any glue, but I did put some reinforcing braces on the 4 corners that I fashioned out of scrap wood. The bed is 100% rock solid and doesn’t flex or anything.

        I also used a miter saw to put a 15-degree taper on the outside legs to give it unique look.

        We ended up going with 12-inch wide side panels to make it all look more substantial. I sent over some pictures of the final product. Thanks again for this blog!

        -Tommy

        • Tommy! Your bed looks absolutely FANTASTIC man. Wow. I’m really impressed. Mind if I post a link to these pictures for curious readers?

          • By all means! Thanks again for your guidance on it. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without your help.

            -Tommy

  4. I’ve been following this guide for a while as I’m looking to buy a new bed. I have already figured out the dimensions for everything for a California King. Would furring strips work for the slats? They are way cheaper than the standard pine 1×3’s here? I’ll be using a nicer 1×3 for the trim but for the slats I’d like to save a buck.

    • Hey Robert- I actually used furring strips for my slats for the same reason! Just get ready to do A LOT of sanding. Totally worth it for the cost savings, though.

      If you don’t mind sharing your dimensions for the California King I’d love to put that info up for those looking to do a cali king build!

      • No problem. I don’t have any CAD programs or anything but this should be good enough, I hope. It’s based off of a 72″ x 84″ California King. The measurements have accounted for nominal vs. actual size, and the trim has a 1″ overhang on 3 sides and flush with the back frame 1″ x 6″. I also moved the center 4×4 a little to account for the extra length. http://imgur.com/ptn60E2

  5. Hello Rick these plans are great just a question wife and I are going to attempt this tomorrow. Our king is 76″ x 80 “. Would our front and back 2x6s be cut to 76″ and our side 2x6s be cut to 76″ also? I’m thinking that the front and back 2″ will give us the 4″ to give us the 80” for the length. We are not going to do the top trim. Thanks for your time.

      • Hi Rudy! Yes a 2×6 is actually 1.5″x5.5″. In this build I use nominal dimensions, which in this case would be 2×6. It makes the direction easier rather than talking in halves, etc.

        I already did all of the math to account for the nominal vs actual size of the lumber when it comes to your cuts.

    • Sorry, I may just be reading the answer. Did you need to cut your side and front 2″X6″ to 76″, if it was a 76″x80″ mattress?

  6. IT’S AWESOME! your plans are amazing! We just finished it thank you for your time in making your plans available for us to use. If you are ever down in Laredo Texas dinner and beers are on me.

    • Hey Derek- If you go here you can see my “step by step” guide for the king size pallet headboard, but it admittedly has some holes in it. Don’t get me wrong- it’s a great place to start…but I don’t have any cut lists or Sketchup files to tell you exactly what you need. That being said, I’m happy to answer any questions you may have if you try to give it a go anyway.

  7. Rick – have you done the cut lengths for a queen mattress. I looked at the queen frame you built but like this design much better.

  8. Rick, I’m in the same situation as Chad above. I like this design better than the one you did for Queen. Would you be able to update this plan with cut lengths for queen mattress, any time in near future?

  9. Our king sized bed also has box springs. would this platform frame be suitable for box springs as well as mattress? Thanks in advance

  10. Are legs necessary? I’d like my bed to sit flat on floor. Would the legs just be shorter or could the be omitted easily? Thank you?

    • Felicia, You can cut your legs level with the frame so that the frame sits flat on the floor and you still maintain the support needed to carry the weight of your mattress.

  11. This is awesome. I totally want to build this. I want to eliminate the trim or lip on the bed, though, mainly because I know that I’ll bump into the corners and get mad at my clumsy self. So a straight box would be great. What modifications would be necessary for that?

    Thanks for taking the time to post all this amazing info!

    • Thanks! No mods necessary! You can just omit the trim! OR you can get 1×2 trim instead of 1×3 so it will sit flush on top of the frame without any overhang.

  12. Rick, can you tell me the dimensions of your King? 79″x75″, or the interior slat area of this plan. Just seeing what I need to change for a standard King.

    Thanks

    • Hey Chris that’s correct! The ID of the frame where the bed sits is 79″x75″. Sorry for the delay, I have no idea how I missed this one…

  13. Hey Rick, keep it simple they say. well, this sure is simple and looks very nice. For 100$ and about 2 hours of work you get this beautiful platform bed. Thanks for your bed plan.

    • Hey Jim, do you recall what your mattress measurements were for this build? I’m gonna start tomorrow and have all my measurements but wanted to verify with someone who has actually built it in a Queen size.
      Thanks

    • No problem Roxe! I haven’t put together a cali cut list together myself, but a previous commenter, Robert S., did. He wrote:

      It’s based off of a 72″ x 84″ California King. The measurements have accounted for nominal vs. actual size, and the trim has a 1″ overhang on 3 sides and flush with the back frame 1″ x 6″. I also moved the center 4×4 a little to account for the extra length. http://imgur.com/ptn60E2

      I would double check that it fits your needs and then go from there. Hope that helps!

    • Hey Valentine! I’m not sure…a previous commenter DID though, check it out…

      It’s based off of a 72″ x 84″ California King. The measurements have accounted for nominal vs. actual size, and the trim has a 1″ overhang on 3 sides and flush with the back frame 1″ x 6″. I also moved the center 4×4 a little to account for the extra length. http://imgur.com/ptn60E2

      I would double check that it fits your needs and then go from there. Hope that helps!

    • Josh,

      BRO! I’ve already got a wife and a whole websites worth of future content from her honey do list…and now I’ve inherited your list?! Get out of here!

      In all seriousness though, I’m working on it.

      • HAHA… No I got it bro… I will just use the king plan and measure it down to the Queen bed. I like this king plan because it seems more robust than the queen plan. Its all good… There are so many ideas. Your plans have given me a good place to start. I want to use 2x 12 to give it a little more height. I am pretty tall and waking up on the floor is interesting. Thanks for your reply!!!

  14. Did you mount your slats on the top of your side rails? Our mattress size is 80×76 and I am wondering if I need to enlarge the sides length to fit the mattress. Thank you for any help you can give

  15. I building this bed for my daughter and she has adhd so she bounce on her bed real bad . I need real thick wood what would you suggest?

  16. Thank u so much for all the time you have put into posting these plans and a sweeping questions. I do have one question though I am a bit confused you said your bed is 80 x 76 but then in a different comment (July 16) you say the interior is 79×75? Does your 80×76 mattress not actually fit perfectly ?

      • No problem Rob! Sorry about the confusion. The interior dimension of the frame (where the mattress will sit) is 79″ x 75″. You can probably squeeze an 80×76 mattress in there, but it will be a snug fit. Sorry about the mixup!

        So to be clear for all future bed frame builders…this frame fits a 79″ x 75″ king mattress.

  17. Rick,

    Excellent build plans! My wife and I are planning to build this bed (or a very similar version) when we upgrade to a new mattress. Speaking of that, we want to go with a California King (72″x84″) mattress. At some point on here, I saw that you intended to post cali king plans w/cut list, etc. I may have missed it, but did you happen to complete the Cali King version?

    Thanks!

    • Thanks Tyler! I do not have a cali king version yet. It was always my plan to make cut & purchase lists for all of the standard mattress sizes, but I just haven’t found the time. Once things settle down from this latest move (we just moved AGAIN!) I’m going to try and get those cut sizes, but unfortunately I don’t have a timeline right now. I can’t even find my lucky woodworking socks…! 🙁

      • You woodwork in socks??? Amateur. Bunny slippers are the only way to go. Gotta wax them to keep the sawdust off, but hey, that’s the price of fashion… haha thanks for the response.I’ll put my big boy pants on a draw up the measurements. Good luck finding those socks.

      • Ok, so check me on this:

        California King Platform Bed: (Mattress at 84”Lx72”W)

        Here’s the material purchase list:
        4- 2x6x8′ Pine Studs (main frame)
        3- 2x4x8′ Pine Stud (left, center & right supports)
        20-1x3x8′ Pine Boards (slats)
        3- 1x3x8′ Pine Boards (top trim)
        1-1x2x8′ Pine Board (back trim optional since it’s not visible)
        1- 4x4x8′ Douglas Fir (legs)
        2-1/2″ Kreg Screws

        *Be sure not to get the outdoor treated wood. The chemically treated stuff has a green hue to it.
        Here’s the material cut list:

        Main frame – Cut your front and back 2×6’s to 75″ and your sides to 84″
        Supports: Left, right and center – Cut the center and side 2×4’s to 84″
        Slats – The slats are cut to 72″. There are 20 slats total. (Actually use 20 slats for the extra length)
        Top trim – Cut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 72″. Cut the side 1×3’s to 88″
        Legs – Cut (6) 4×4 legs to 4″

        Assume a mattress at 84″L x 72″W. The BOM stays the same because no dimensions exceed the standard board lengths. I plan to leave the 20th slat in play to compensate for the extra few inches of length. Does this look about right to you?

        Thanks!

  18. So, what are the chances of putting the head and foot pieces on last in order to make the bed easy to unassemble? That way people who move alot have a convenient way to just remove 2 pieces and the bed comes apart like 2 twin beds??

  19. I could be missing it but how many screws and of what kind did you use where? Awesome plans! I’ll be starting this next week when the weather is good.

  20. I noticed that the one comment asks if this is for a mattress only. If I was to adjust the height of the guts do you think a box spring would work with it? Just bought a brand new mattress and box spring set and love the look of this frame.

    • Hey Jinx,

      This would certainly fit a box spring, but the bed would end up being much higher. You could drop down the 2×4 supports lower on the frame to counteract the height of the box spring if you’d like. Totally up to you!

      • I noticed after posting this that you have 2 frames that look the same. I was referring to the queen frame would that still work?

  21. I made this bed myself and my husband and family loved it, now my family have put in requests for me to make then one in full and twin size. Do you have the measurements for those sizes?

  22. Hey Rick i plan on building this bed tomorrow, i was wondering if i would be able to shorten the headboard so i can attach it to the frame!?

    • Hi Brie, You can certainly shorten the headboard if you like, but my recommendation is not to attach the headboard to the frame, but rather attach it to the wall using a french cleat. Click HERE to see what I’m talking about. It’s fairly simple to do and in my opinion much safer than trying to support the headboard using only the frame. Best of luck and let me know how things work out!

  23. Is your mattress 75×79 or did you take away one inch from the length and width to make it a tighter fit? Almost every king mattress I see is listed at 76×80. I ask this because I want to change your plans for a queen mattress. A queen is listed as 60×80. Should I change it to 59×80?

    • Thanks so much! I love my new bed I wish I knew how to upload pictures. I still need to paint the headboard. With a 1 year old I feel like that’s never going to happen haha

    • Did Rick answer your question? I would like to modify the plans for a 72×84 Cali King Bed. In theory, following Rick’s plans I would have to modify to 74×83. But, that means the sides would to be 1″ less that the CaliKing mattress.

      • Hey J check out this from a previous commenter:

        It’s based off of a 72″ x 84″ California King. The measurements have accounted for nominal vs. actual size, and the trim has a 1″ overhang on 3 sides and flush with the back frame 1″ x 6″. I also moved the center 4×4 a little to account for the extra length. http://imgur.com/ptn60E2

  24. Fantastic build! Your instructions were so easy to follow and We built it in a day. Still have to stain and poly, but it fits our king size Casper mattress perfectly! Thank you!

  25. Rick, Have you had any followers make this bed with pallets instead of doing the slats? I love the look of your base so we were hoping to start there and then add a bit of height (and save some cash) by utilizing some pallets from a local feed store. Thoughts?

    • Hi Jacob! I have not, but sounds like a great way to potentially save some $$$! If I were you I would probably disassemble a few pallets (assuming they’re heat treated and clean/cleaned up), add 2 more slat supports to accommodate the shorter pallet boards and lay them out as slats, then go ahead with your plan to jack up the bed frame height with more pallets. I would just be VERY mindful about how you secure the frame to the pallets as 2×6’s are really heavy, so you don’t want the frame coming loose or anything. Hope that helps, keep me posted on how it goes!

  26. So excited to try this project, but was wondering if you had gotten around to posting the plans for the California King.

    • Hi Merideth thanks for stopping by! I have not written up the cali king plans, sorry! If you check in the comments a few readers built one and provided their cut list & measurements. I’ll try to find it and link you to it here!

  27. Hi Rick, I’m just wondering if it would be good to make the ID of the frame slightly bigger to make it easier to put fitted sheets on the matress? We haven’t bought our matress yet and I’m not sure how tight it will fit in the frame.

    • Hi Gerry! I have fitted sheets on my mattress and there isn’t a problem when on the frame. If you plan on tucking a thick comforter in and under the mattress you could probably add 1/4 to a 1/2″ at most on each side if you’re more comfortable. But I don’t think it’s totally necessary based on my experience with the bed frame and from feedback from readers who have built it over the years. Hope that helps!

  28. Hey Rick! I love the design. I’ve read many of the comments here. I saw that you mentioned that it’s not that easy to disassemble. Unfortunately, I love moving and have moved almost every year. Hard to stay in one place. So I’m thinking if I go ahead and make this bed when I move into my new place in September, I’ll likely want to use bolts. Do you have any guidance on which bolts might be best to use? Or how to go about using bolts? (It’ll be my first project if you can’t tell) Additionally, I did see that someone had mentioned whiteboard, and that being okay to use. I’ll likely do that route since I can get them at a place like Home Depot AND have them cut the wood for me. But I just wanted to make sure that would still be an okay option to use that wood using bolts for the project.

    • Hey Phil thanks for stopping by! I certainly understand your position, we’ve moved quite a bit over the past seven years. Luckily we’ve had professional movers to do all the heavy lifting, otherwise I would have had to build in such a way that it could be disassembled.

      After a little google-fu, I found this. I would use their method of attaching the legs/ center support cross brace by bolting through the legs. Whiteboard should probably be just fine, but keep in mind the 2×6’s will be much sturdier (assuming it’s standard 3/4″ thick whiteboard). The type of bolts should be outlined in that link I added in, so check that out. Let me know how things workout and if you run into any problems along the way!

  29. I’m in the process of building this, can I use oak 1×3’s instead of pine for slats? Also I don’t want to glue as I have to take it down in a year

  30. Hey Rick!!

    Great project and amazing detailed instructions. I’m gonna tackle this when I get home in a few days!

    I have a few questions that I’m hoping you can help me with. I have a queen mattress and would like to use it with this frame. Can you post your mattress measurements so I can see the relationship between the mattress and the bed frame? Those measurements will help me scale the king frame down to a queen!

    Second question pertains to the Kreg holes drilled on the corners of the frame. Is it secure enough to drill kreg holes in the inside? For example the screw heads towards the corner vs into the meatier part of the wood? Obviously the way you chose to do it keeps the hole hidden on the inside of the frame vs the outside which I like because then if need be I can take it apart… I’m simply curious about the strength.

    Thanks Again
    Ben

  31. Hi! I just wanted to say thanks for the great post! I made this bed today and I appreciate the simplicity of the tutorial and the easy to follow breakdown. I love rustic look as well. I’ve found that an angle grinder with a sandpaper disc works great for roughing up the wood-you get all kinds of cool divets and marks so it makes it look aged while smoothing it. And it’s super fun! I’m going off your headboard idea as well with some modifications. Glad I came across your site.

  32. Hi,
    First off let start by saying this is a great post. I am trying to build a platform bed based on your advice. But the mattress I am planning to get is 80″L x 76″W x 10″H. I wanted to understand how I can incorporate that, and what dimension should everything be? As you must have realized by now, I am newbee to all this.
    Thank you

  33. What about moving the frame?
    We just bought a brand new home, and our master is on the 2nd story. I want to make this frame and feel like it would be best to assemble it all in the garage…but do you think I’ll be able to get it through a doorway and stairwell?

  34. I love this idea. However, I like it for a… how-shall-I-say… Multitask purpose! I can imagine this platform being elongated to 7 feet/84 inches each way, then placing wider slats in the center so there is no gap, and making it a yoga platform as well as a bed-frame! Is there any chance that a wider pine slat surface on this design would not hold the weight of 2 people (I’m guessing no more than 550 lbs)?
    Best part would be, if guests arrive, get a japanese futon mattress or two, and then… BOOM: The yoga den becomes a makeshift minimalist bedroom. That is, if it’s not going to break under the pressure of people yoga-ing it up over and over again. Thoughts?

  35. Dude — Rick — thank you for this rad plan. So simple, so effective. Wifey loves the platform bed. Stained it with Jacobean and hit it with only 15 slats (per Tuft & Needle’s recommendation). Keep killing it.

  36. Hi Rick,
    Sorry for the basic question…(first wood working project). So I’m ordering a king size bed that is 76” x 80”. Does that mean I need to adjust my measurements or should the bed squeeze in? Or, Do you recommend cutting slightly bigger to allow sheets and bedding? Thanks in advance.

  37. Is it possible to use 3/4″ plywood to make the slats?

    The 1 x 3 boards for the slats are the largest cost for the bed. I’m considering ripping down 1 and a half sheets of 3/4″ plywood which would be much, much cheaper. Anything I should worry about, structurally speaking? (If I split the slats in two, I think there’s enough room to cut all of them from 1 sheet).

    Otherwise, I’m totally gonna make this, thanks!

    Thanks!

  38. Hey Rick,

    First off thanks so much for the design plans! These are some of the best and easiest I’ve seen to follow so far. I’m gonna start on this build in the next few weeks but I had a question first. My wife and I aren’t small people and i’m not sure there is enough support for us. Would adding a second support piece in the middle be pretty easy? Or should we get thicker wood for the support slats?

    Thanks in advance for your time!

    • Hey Jeb thanks! You can certainly jump the 1×3 slats to 1×4’s and add a second center support w/legs. I would divide the width of the bed and place the (2) center supports in that space evenly. Rather than attaching the slats to the bed, I would let them be removable since you’re jumping up the size and therefore weight. You can check out my latest M-Series bed build to see a cool fold-up slat solution. Best of luck with the build you’re going to love it!

      • Thanks for the quick reply Rick! I will definitely be using the fold up slat solution! I had one more question. After talking with my wife she would rather the bed sit flush to the floor so the dogs can’t lose stuff underneath it. Would using 2×8’s instead of 2×6 be enough to correct for the loss of height when attaching the 4×4 flush to the 2×6?

  39. Hi Rick,

    Greetings from Toronto. I’m aiming to make this bed in the next couple days and wanted some guidance on some modifications.

    Our room isn’t large so I want to remove the trim. I’m also thinking to reduce the width and more directly integrate the slats. Is there any harm in using 2x4s attached directly to the exterior frame and rotated 90″? It would kind of be like building a stud wall. I’d still use 2x6s for the outside and would add a support brace down the middle with legs.

    Let me know what you think. With the kreg, the 2×4 screws would be well hidden and because it’s stronger in that direction, I think I could get away with a piece every 8″ I could get away with 9 of them instead of 20 horizontal slats. Is it also required to glue everything?

    Would appreciate any thoughts on reducing size, weight, effort, and/or cost. Thanks and Merry Christmas.

    • Merry Christmas Rishi! You can certainly remove the trim and rotate the 2×4 supports and go right into the 2×6 frame. By doing this the legs that are secured into the support pieces will only have about half the surface area to attach them. So keep that in mind. It’s not a big deal as you can just screw the legs into the 2×6 frame and maybe on an angle through the 2×4.

      You’ll have to experiment with the # of slats to properly support the mattress. Once the frame is built you can cut some slats, throw the mattress on and test it out. If you need more, cut some more and install!

      Glue isn’t required in the Kreg joints I just like to use it for good measure.

      Best of luck with the build!

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