It’s been about a year since I’ve built anything so I guess the time has finally come to break out the old Kreg Jig. I’ve been looking forward to building another bed frame for a while now. You would think after the dining and console table builds that this would be a walk in the park…but I don’t know. I’m kinda nervous.
4 – 1 x 8 x 8′ Frame (Select Pine)
3 – 2 x 4 x 8′ Support (Pine Studs)
3 – 1 x 2 x 8′ Trim (Select Pine)
1- 4 x 4 x 8′ Legs (Douglas Fir or Pine)
19- 1 x 3 x 8′ Slats (Pine Furring strips)
1-1/4″ Kreg Screws
2″ Kreg Screws
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
RustOleum Dark Walnut Stain
Minwax Semi-Gloss Polycrylic
2- 1×8’s @ 81″
2- 1×8’s @ 58.5″
3- 2 x 4’s @ 79.5″
2- 1 x 2’s @ 62″ (Front)
1- 1 x 2 @ 79-5/8″ (Sides)
Daybed Orientation (What I’ll be using)
2- 1 x 2’s @ 59-1/8″ (Sides)
1- 1 x 2 @ 82-1/2″ (Front)
6- 4×4’s @ 4-1/4″
19- 1 x 3’s @ 58-3/8″
Before building anything I always peruse the web to find out exactly what I want and more often than not, there’s nothing exactly how I want it to be. Ugh, why do I have to be so picky! So what I do is steal a little from this piece, a little from that piece, until I have a hybrid design of sorts. Every great designer is a greater thief. Take that one to the bank!
Before you purchase the material list and whatnot, I want you to measure your queen sized bed and make sure it’s close to mine: 79″ long X 58.5″ wide. Why does this matter? Well, the bed has to fit inside the bed frame, BRO! Also, determine your bed orientation: Standard or Daybed. This will come into play as we cut the trim. If your queen sized bed varies a bit from mine, make sure you account for that by adding or subtracting inches from the cut sizes.
Go out to your big box store or lumber yard (bring your tape measure) and load it into your vehicle!
If you’re shopping at a big box such as home depot, lowes or menards, you’ll notice that there’s different qualities of wood available. Usually two. Select (straighter, barely any knots, less sanding required) and Quality (Have to dig for straight pieces, more knots, more sanding). Pick whichever wood fits your budget. But know this! The rougher the wood, the more sanding you’re going to have to do. I chose to get select lumber for the main frame and trim, construction grade pine studs and the cheapest 1×3’s available-pine furring strips.
Proper Kreg Jig Setup: While the Kreg Jig system is fairly simple, it’s important to have the proper setup for a successful build.
The correct setting for the collar is to place the bit in the depth setting gauge with the step of the bit (the thicker part) at the marking that matches the depth of the material you are using. If you ever get confused, there are pictures of this setup in the Kreg manual.
You choose your material thickness (in this case 3/4″) and adjust your set accordingly. Clamp adjustment for 3/4″.
OK! Let’s rock and rule, baby! Lay-out your material…
I clamp my 1×8 and put 3 holes on each end.
To give my edges a more finished look, I use my hand plane on an angle. You can use a sander instead if you don’t own a hand plane.
I use my sander for the end grain.
Once everything is sanded down and pre-drilled, I apply some wood glue and…
Use 1-1/4″ Kreg screws to secure the frame.
Using a wet papertowl or rag, wipe away any excess glue before it dries.
Using a framers square, I check for…square.
Always measure to check and see if your measurements are correct. Looks good at 79-1/2″ (a little breathing room).
And 58-1/2″ is spot on!
I decided to paint the frame. SO I think I’ll do that now. Because I’m an adult.
Something looks off…WHITE! C’mon, I had to.
Rather than watch the paint dry, I went out front and got the 2×4 supports pre-drilled. I’m adjusting my Kreg Jig to accommodate the thicker 2×4 (1-1/2 thickness in actuality).
A simple adjustment with an allen key.
I mark 2″ from the ends and then every 10″.
Then I get to work!
Once the paint is dry, I flip the frame on its side and prepare to attach the support!
Using this adjustable square, I mark 2″ from the BOTTOM of the frame. I repeat…2″ from the BOTTOM of the frame.
Then I slide the square down the frame while lightly resting the pencil on the end of the square. The result is a straight line exactly 2″ from the bottom.
Generously apply wood glue to the end and sides. Don’t be stingy!
I get the support in place and screw the ends and center with 2″. Next I stand the frame back up on its side and apply clamps. I want the support straight(level) with no gaps between it and the frame. Once the clamps are secured I finish screwing into the rest of the pre-drilled holes with 2″ screws.
Mark out the center of the 58-1/2″ sides. That comes to 29-1/4″.
Here you see the center 2×4 support. A nice guy, that center 2×4 supporter. So nice he’s holy, in fact! 2 holes on one side 1/2″ to 3/4″ from the end. And one centered hole on other side.
Prop up the center support so it’s level with your 2″ mark (and the other 2 supports). Apply glue and screw.
Rinse and repeat for the other side!
Flip the frame on its side and screw into the remaining hole.
You’re getting a behind the scenes VIP all access pass to the bottom of the bed frame. You’re really lucky.
Next up I fill in the holes with wood filler.
Like so! Once that dries, sand it down with a fine grit sandpaper and wipe off/vacuum off any dust.
This is a 4×4 block that was cut to 4-1/4″. Please cut (6) of these.
I measure in 1-1/2″ (my camera guy took this picture before the tape measure was lined up). Don’t worry, he’s SO fired.
I set my miter saw to 45° and line up the blade with my mark.
This is the first time I tapered the legs. I think they look nice. On the left is a fresh cut leg. The right leg has already been sanded smooth. You can skip tapering the legs completely. This is your adventure, after all!
Here’s how the tapered legs look under the frame.
Anddd a close-up.
The benefit of using 2×4’s as supports is the 4×4 legs sit perfectly underneath.
The two center legs will not be tapered, however.
I measure 19-7/8″ off of each end (1/4 of the full length).
And mark out where the center lines and perimeter of the legs are.
By doing this I can pre-drill without having to worry if I’m off the mark.
Jumping on over to the trim, now. Since my bed is going to rock the daybed orientation (long ways on the wall), the longer piece of trim will be in the front. If you’re building a standard queen, refer to the cut sizes for at the beginning of the post.
I give my trim the same sanding treatment as the main frame and legs…looks nice!
Now that we’re sanded and clean, let’s stain!
RustOleum Dark walnut.
After allowing ample time to dry, I apply the Minwax Semi-Gloss Polycrylic.
Use a sanding block (or a scrap piece of wood) with fine grit paper…
And lightly sand after the first coat. We want to get out any bubbles and inconsistencies. Notice the white film on the wood. No, don’t freak out! This is completely normal!
Wipe off the dust from sanding, and apply your second and final coat. Now set those aside because…
IT’S SLATTIN’ TIME!
Today we’ll be cutting out slats down to 58-3/8″!!!
Here’s a short cut: Cut the first slat, line up the ends…
And transfer the line.
Repeat that this many times(19)!
Then get to sanding!
Vacuum and wipe off any excess dust with a wet rag…and set those slats aside.
We’ll be using 2-1/2″ Kreg screws for the legs. Two in each leg.
Before we screw we’re going to pre-drill with a 3/32″ bit.
Pre-drilling reduces the risk of the wood cracking. It also makes screwing a whole lot easier since there’s a pilot hole already.
And there we go!
Same deal for the center legs.
Those are some nice legs.
It’s trim time! Grab your clamps and wood clue, then follow me upstairs…
Apply glue to the top of the frame, similar to how we did with the 2×4 supports. All SQUIGGLY!
Don’t forget the end…
Then clamp, clamp, clamp.
I use scrap wood to give me a better hold on the total length of the frame. It also reduces the risk of leaving a clamp mark on the trim.
Next up we’ll be securing the slats. I’ll be using a pneumatic nail gun with 1-1/4″ nails. Don’t freak out! You have options! You can use 1-1/4″ brad nails and hammer them in manually. You can pre-drill and use brads manually. You can wood screws and a drill. You could probably even glue the slats if you had to (ain’t nobody got time for that).
Ok, everyone plug your compressor into your pineapple outlet!
Notice the location of the leg screws. DON’T HIT THOSE!
I’m using a piece of scrap 2×4 as a spacer.
Pew pew pew! (nail gun sounds)
I put two nails on each side and two nails into the middle support.
I was concerned the slats wouldn’t be evenly spaced throughout, but they were! Totally planned it that way.
Sweet slats, bro! Thanks bro!
Clamping the final piece of trim.
It fits! I’m losing daylight here, so I’ll have to take a really super nice picture when the sun visits again!
And here we are with the blankets and pillows…
And here’s the new headboard! Stay tuned for that upcoming project guide.
What do you think?
Not too shabby.