This week I set out to ditch our box-springs and get low! Read more to find out how to build your own king sized platform bed.
Please GO HERE for the updated 2015 king-sized platform bed plans! They’re BETTER! Come back here to see my build process for each corresponding step!
4- 2 x 6 x 8′ Pine Studs (main frame)
3- 2 x 4 x 8′ Pine Stud (left, center & right supports)
20- 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (slats)
3- 1 x 3 x 8′ Pine Boards (top trim)
1- 1 x 2 x 8′ Pine Board (back trim optional since it’s not visible)
1- 4 x 4 x 8′ Douglas Fir (legs)
2-1/2″ Kreg Screws
Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut)
Minwax Polycrylic Satin Polyurethane
*Be sure not to get the outdoor treated wood. The chemically treated stuff has a green hue to it.
Main frame – Cut your front and back 2×6’s to 78″ and your sides to 79″
Supports: Left, right and center – Cut the center and side 2×4’s to 79″
Slats – The slats are cut to 75″. There are 20 slats total.
Top trim – Cut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 75″. Cut the side 1×3’s to 83″
Legs – Cut (6) 4×4 legs to 4″
All of this will be detailed and pictured below…so read on bed builder!
• Not every king size mattress is the same! Double check your dimensions to make sure they’ll work with this build! I have a Serta memory foam mattress.
• I included a FAQ section at the bottom of the post. Please read through this and any of the comments before asking a question!
The main frame is 2″x6″ with a centered 2″x4″ set down 1-1/4″ for stability. I have a 2″x3″ along each side set down 1-1/4″ to hold the planks (which hold up the bed). For the legs I picked up some beefy 4x4s.
$75 for the wood.
First time using the Kreg Jig.
Cutting down the 2x6s…
Cut your front and back 2×6’s to 78″ and your sides to 79″.
Before attaching each joint, I check for square!
Cut the center 2×4 to 79″ and the outer 2×3’s to 79″ as well.
Filled in any major gaps & cracks
Just going to rest my eyes for a little bit…
Next up I’ll be sanding & staining! Stayed tuned…
Sanding, staining and throwing on poly actually takes quite a bit of time. But ya know what? I did it. I even made some legs…cause I was bored!
4×4 legs are cut to 4″!
They sit nicely under the slat supports.
Look at that baby bump! Okay so the slats are cut to 75″. There are 19 slats total.
Showing a little leg.
Now I’m going to beat up the wood…don’t judge me!
Triple bagged some screws, nuts and bolts…
It randomizes the marks…
This trim is about to be…
Stained! I brushed water on the wood first to give the stain a more uneven look.
Cut the front 1×3 and back 1×2 to 75″. Cut the side 1×3’s to 83″. Attach the trim with 1″ brad nails. Pre-drilled with a small bit before nailing and they’ll go in like butter!
3-1/2″ screws do the trick. Pre-drill before you screw the legs.
Another close-up of the legs/trim
The final coat of poly is on and I’ve hijacked the legs for…
You guessed it, more staining and poly.
…Annnnd I’m back with the final bedframe update!
After cutting and sanding the slats with 80/120 grit paper, I brought them to the bedroom and threw them in the frame.
I took a scrap piece of 2×6 to use as a spacer for the slats. I tweaked the spacing of a few slats to make sure they fell over top of the two middle support legs.
I drilled a screw in each piece a quarter of the way down and then alternated sides with the spacer.
And here’s the final bed-frame, without any fancy pillow or comforter…
Next up I’m going to design and build the headboard, so stay tuned!
Alright, I’m back with the headboard photos! Check em out!
To check out how the headboard was made, click here!
And here’s how the bed looks in the new bedroom!
Please read both the FAQ and comments below for answers to any of the questions you have regarding this build. If you don’t see your question answered, comment and I’ll do my best to clear things up! I really want to help you make a kick ass platform bed.
Frequently Asked Questions:
How do I attach the legs?
The legs rest under the 2×3 slat supports and are attached to the main frame using 3-1/2″ screws. Pre-drill into the 4×4 legs about 2″ and then screw.
What stain did you use? I LOVE IT!
This stain is super loveable, I agree. The stain is “Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain (Dark Walnut)”.
How did you achieve that look with the stain?
For the stain I used the water/stain method used in the pallet headboard build. Here’s a breakdown of the process: I filled up an old Tupperware container about half way with water and physically brushed the water onto the wood. Since wood is porous, it will absorb the water first, then the stain second. By putting more water on (i.e. completely saturating the wood), the less stain will be able to be absorbed.
Then I immediately stained (with a separate brush). This is messy, so make sure you work on an old tarp or something.
To achieve different tones: Darkest: Stain with a brush, immediately wipe off excess stain with rag. Medium: Brush some water, then brush stain and wipe accordingly. Lightest: Saturate with water, brush on stain and wipe.
Did you use a clearcoat or wax…or something?
YEP! I applied (3) coats of satin polyurethane.
Umm…this is my first project. I don’t know how to apply polyurethane…
Here’s my process: After allowing ample time for the stain to dry, wipe off and/or shop-vac your wood to make sure there’s no dust. Grab a paintbrush or one of those cheap foam brushes and apply a generous first coat with the grain (see here). Let that coat dry (1-2 hrs depending on temp/humidity) and then lightly sand with a fine grit sandpaper (200 or 220 should do the trick). If the clear-coat is still sticky, you need more drying time! Then apply your 2nd coat, let dry, sand. Repeat one more time for a really consistent clear-coat, except do not sand after the 3rd coat. You’re done! Here’s the stuff I’d recommend, but don’t buy it from Amazon. Run to Lowes and you’ll get it much cheaper. As far as I know, Home Depot does not carry this brand. The Minwax stuff works is fine too, though.
Does the frame squeak?
Nope! 2×6’s are solid!